Date: 28/02/15 Time: 5.30pm Position: Third Cove, Breaksea Sound
We've had a brilliant day. We left our anchorage in Dagg Sound early to try and catch the south easterly that had been blowing overnight. As we left the entrance to Dagg Sound we saw a yacht motoring north and a cruise ship heading up the coast towards us. Low cloud hung over the mountains along the coastline and the sky line was a dark, ominous grey that held the threat of rain. There was a southerly wind blowing so we tacked to windward covering 17nm down the coast to Breaksea Sound. It was a great trip down the coast and we really enjoyed the sailing. As we got closer to Breaksea Sound the sun broke through and the cloud began to lift.
There are several large forested islands spread along the beginning stretch of Breaksea Sound, before it splits into two arms at its head. Breaksea Sound is 33km long and is connected to Dusky Sound by a passage that runs north south between the two sounds called Acheron Pasage.
Not long after entering the sound we had three albatrosses land in the water behind our boat. We think they were use to hand outs from the fisherman as they trailed our boat for quite a while, flying to catch up to us and landing their huge body gracefully in the water beside us. It was great to see these magnificent birds close up. They didn't have a feather out of place and looked quite serious with their grey faces and dark eyebrows. We were also fortunate to see many Fiordland penguins as well today. Quite a few have been busy floating on their backs, preening themselves. As we neared our anchorage we saw about four dolphins and a small group of seals sleeping in the sun on an exposed rock. Since entering the sound we enjoyed a tailwind that enabled us to sail all the way to our anchorage in Third Cove, halfway along the sound. As we turned into the wind we dropped the anchor and lowered the mainsail at the same time. Third Cove is a nice little cove surrounded by forested hills and a rocky beach. Wayne had more success fishing this afternoon and caught a Blue Cod not long after we anchored. Blue Cod are very common in the fjords and are delicious.
All is well on board. Kathy and Wayne
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Saturday, 28 February 2015
Friday, 27 February 2015
Dagg Sound
Date: 27/02/15 Time: 5.55pm Position: Head of Dagg Sound
We left Doubtful Sound early yesterday morning with a cool, fresh south easterly behind us. We set a poled headsail and full main (wing and wing). We flew out of Doubtful Sound at 8 knots with the tide under us and the wind behind us. It was exhilarating. As we headed south down the coast in the sunshine the wind died off and we motored the 7nm to Dagg Sound. No matter how far off the coast we are we are always visited by a bumble bee. They give the boat the once over and then head off again, perhaps they are attracted initially by our bright yellow sea kayaks.
As we neared the entrance to Dagg Sound we could see a large white fishing vessel heading north up the coast. Not long after sighting the vessel, it altered its course and started heading our way. When it got closer we realised it was 'Jewel' the fishing charter boat that had kindly offered to fill our gas tank. They were on their way back to Doubtful Sound and as we dropped our mainsail they came alongside and handed over a full gas tank. Thank you Rob, the skipper of Jewel! It looked like they had had a successful fishing and hunting trip as they had a deer hanging from the back rail.
We have met some very kind and generous people in Fiordland. The people who make a living here are a close knit community who look out for each other. We have decided to join in with the community and keep a regular evening sched with Meri from Bluff Fisherman's Radio. After listening to Meri give the weather forecast each evening she then conducts a roll call of all the boats on her list including us now. Each boat gives their position and intentions and some give their weather observations. She is very friendly and likes to end each call with 'Good as gold'
As we entered Dagg Sound we had our own opportunity at a bit of game fishing. There was a bird feeding frenzy happening as the birds followed a bait ball around the entrance. We put out a shiny lure and headed for the feeding frenzy that kept us going around in circles for quite awhile of us chasing the birds and the birds chasing the fish. We finally had a huge fish on the line and as we wound the line in, the fish in turn would run the line out again. This fight went on for about ten minutes. It looked like a large kingfish when it came up near the boat. But you guessed it, it got away by straightening the hook. It was disappointing but it was lovely to watch the seagulls, terns and shearwaters diving for fish.
Dagg Sound is a very pretty place with two arms at its end. We were lucky enough to see three Fiordland Penguins swimming around as we neared the head of the sound. We dropped our anchor in 15m of water at the head of the fjord by mid afternoon.
We are only 1km across the land from the head of Crooked Arm in Doubtful Sound and this morning we attempted to follow 'the well marked track' from our anchorage to Crooked Arm. The beginning of the track was easily identified with the usual orange triangular markers. But after entering a clearing we were not able to pick up the track again so we did our own exploring of the area and returned to our kayaks. There is a grass plant that grows here and it sheds its seeds in the most annoying way. As you walk by its seeds grip hold of your bootlaces, socks and hairy legs (which is very painful, it feels like your hairs are being pulled out). We managed to remove the seeds from ourselves even though we were being attacked by a swarm of sandflies in the process. After escaping the sandflies we had a very satisfying paddle around our arm as well as Anchorage Arm in the gentle rain. We saw another two penguins swimming about and collected mussels for dinner. The water in the inter tidal zone is really clear and as we paddled along and looked down we could clearly see lots of 11 armed starfish, sea cucumbers, sea urchins(kina) and small fish.
We plan to sail to Breaksea Sound tomorrow. All is well on board with the sound of steady rain on the cabin top. Kathy and Wayne
----------
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We left Doubtful Sound early yesterday morning with a cool, fresh south easterly behind us. We set a poled headsail and full main (wing and wing). We flew out of Doubtful Sound at 8 knots with the tide under us and the wind behind us. It was exhilarating. As we headed south down the coast in the sunshine the wind died off and we motored the 7nm to Dagg Sound. No matter how far off the coast we are we are always visited by a bumble bee. They give the boat the once over and then head off again, perhaps they are attracted initially by our bright yellow sea kayaks.
As we neared the entrance to Dagg Sound we could see a large white fishing vessel heading north up the coast. Not long after sighting the vessel, it altered its course and started heading our way. When it got closer we realised it was 'Jewel' the fishing charter boat that had kindly offered to fill our gas tank. They were on their way back to Doubtful Sound and as we dropped our mainsail they came alongside and handed over a full gas tank. Thank you Rob, the skipper of Jewel! It looked like they had had a successful fishing and hunting trip as they had a deer hanging from the back rail.
We have met some very kind and generous people in Fiordland. The people who make a living here are a close knit community who look out for each other. We have decided to join in with the community and keep a regular evening sched with Meri from Bluff Fisherman's Radio. After listening to Meri give the weather forecast each evening she then conducts a roll call of all the boats on her list including us now. Each boat gives their position and intentions and some give their weather observations. She is very friendly and likes to end each call with 'Good as gold'
As we entered Dagg Sound we had our own opportunity at a bit of game fishing. There was a bird feeding frenzy happening as the birds followed a bait ball around the entrance. We put out a shiny lure and headed for the feeding frenzy that kept us going around in circles for quite awhile of us chasing the birds and the birds chasing the fish. We finally had a huge fish on the line and as we wound the line in, the fish in turn would run the line out again. This fight went on for about ten minutes. It looked like a large kingfish when it came up near the boat. But you guessed it, it got away by straightening the hook. It was disappointing but it was lovely to watch the seagulls, terns and shearwaters diving for fish.
Dagg Sound is a very pretty place with two arms at its end. We were lucky enough to see three Fiordland Penguins swimming around as we neared the head of the sound. We dropped our anchor in 15m of water at the head of the fjord by mid afternoon.
We are only 1km across the land from the head of Crooked Arm in Doubtful Sound and this morning we attempted to follow 'the well marked track' from our anchorage to Crooked Arm. The beginning of the track was easily identified with the usual orange triangular markers. But after entering a clearing we were not able to pick up the track again so we did our own exploring of the area and returned to our kayaks. There is a grass plant that grows here and it sheds its seeds in the most annoying way. As you walk by its seeds grip hold of your bootlaces, socks and hairy legs (which is very painful, it feels like your hairs are being pulled out). We managed to remove the seeds from ourselves even though we were being attacked by a swarm of sandflies in the process. After escaping the sandflies we had a very satisfying paddle around our arm as well as Anchorage Arm in the gentle rain. We saw another two penguins swimming about and collected mussels for dinner. The water in the inter tidal zone is really clear and as we paddled along and looked down we could clearly see lots of 11 armed starfish, sea cucumbers, sea urchins(kina) and small fish.
We plan to sail to Breaksea Sound tomorrow. All is well on board with the sound of steady rain on the cabin top. Kathy and Wayne
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Wednesday, 25 February 2015
Exploring Doubtful Sound
Date: 25/02/15 Time: 3.30pm Position: Snug Cove, First Arm, Doubtful Sound
We have been having an amazing time exploring Doubtful Sound over the last four days. The scenery is just spectacular and the changing weather patterns create a different atmosphere each day. Doubtful Sound is the second longest fjord at 40.4km and it is the deepest fjord at 434m. Here is what we've been up to since leaving Deep Cove.
On Sunday morning we topped up with diesel at the fuel wharf at Deep Cove. This wharf is canti-levered which means the wharf is bolted to the wall of the fjord. It was originally built as a shipping wharf to handle heavy equipment during the construction of the near by under ground hydro power station. After sailing out of Deep Cove we entered Hall Arm on the southern side of the fjord. The peaks and sheer walls rising out of the water in this arm were stunning. It was only 6nm from the wharf to the head of Hall Arm where we dropped anchor and took a stern line ashore. It was a beautiful sunny afternoon with clear blue skies overhead and the dramatic rocky skyline of the mountains above our anchorage just topped off a magnificent day. Since there was a breeze keeping the sandflies at bay we got a few deck jobs done as well as a trip up the mast to check everything over.
On Monday morning we left Hall Arm for the next arm, Crooked Arm. Once out in the main fjord the head wind was very strong with substantial waves and white caps. We motored close to the shoreline as the winds near the shore were calmer. After entering Crooked Arm we had the wind behind us and we were able to unfurl the headsail and sail down until the crook. After this point we lost the wind and had to motor to the head of the arm. We anchored in Haulashore Cove without the need for any shore lines. This was our first swing anchorage in Fiordland. There were several lovely U shaped valleys leading off from this arm.
On Tuesday morning we set off even earlier than normal hoping to avoid any strong winds by crossing the main fjord before 10am. After 10am the wind tends to pick up. Our destination was Blanket Bay, at the south eastern end of Secretary Island. We had a pleasant trip across and tied up alongside a historic wharf, with an old shack built on the wharf called 'The Blanket Bay Hotel'. This was a hub for fishermen and appeared to still be in use with an array of fishing buoys, ropes, etc inside and around the old building. There was a helipad adjoining the wharf that is used to transport crayfish out. We filled our water tanks here as there is a fresh water hose available. After leaving the wharf we picked up a mooring and tied up to a pre set stern line provided by fishermen. The cold front that we had been hearing about on the radio weather forecasts began to set in with heavy rain all afternoon. We spoke with three sea kayakers who paddled by. They were doing their own private trip and had been camping and staying at huts around the sound. After chatting with them for awhile we discovered that they had been to Antarctica on Spirit with our good friend Ben Tucker as first mate. They spoke very highly of Ben and the good times they had down there.
Today (Wednesday) a fresh south easterly breeze began to pick up and was blowing into our anchorage so we decided it was time to move. Before leaving we spoke to a guy from DOC who was in a run about and was with a crew who were checking stoat traps along the shore on Secretary Island. There are a few islands south of here that are part or whole pest free. The pests being possums, rats, mice and stoats. They are trying to increase the native bird population on these islands. An hour and a half after leaving Blanket Bay we dropped anchor at the head of First Arm in Snug Cove, our second swing anchorage. Not long after arriving we kayaked around First Arm in the beautiful warm sunshine. It was low tide and there were mussels everywhere, so we collected some for dinner. We are once again surrounded by breathtaking views of the mountains.
Tomorrow we hope to sail south to Daag Sound as the weather forecast is favourable. All is great on board. Wayne and Kathy
----------
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We have been having an amazing time exploring Doubtful Sound over the last four days. The scenery is just spectacular and the changing weather patterns create a different atmosphere each day. Doubtful Sound is the second longest fjord at 40.4km and it is the deepest fjord at 434m. Here is what we've been up to since leaving Deep Cove.
On Sunday morning we topped up with diesel at the fuel wharf at Deep Cove. This wharf is canti-levered which means the wharf is bolted to the wall of the fjord. It was originally built as a shipping wharf to handle heavy equipment during the construction of the near by under ground hydro power station. After sailing out of Deep Cove we entered Hall Arm on the southern side of the fjord. The peaks and sheer walls rising out of the water in this arm were stunning. It was only 6nm from the wharf to the head of Hall Arm where we dropped anchor and took a stern line ashore. It was a beautiful sunny afternoon with clear blue skies overhead and the dramatic rocky skyline of the mountains above our anchorage just topped off a magnificent day. Since there was a breeze keeping the sandflies at bay we got a few deck jobs done as well as a trip up the mast to check everything over.
On Monday morning we left Hall Arm for the next arm, Crooked Arm. Once out in the main fjord the head wind was very strong with substantial waves and white caps. We motored close to the shoreline as the winds near the shore were calmer. After entering Crooked Arm we had the wind behind us and we were able to unfurl the headsail and sail down until the crook. After this point we lost the wind and had to motor to the head of the arm. We anchored in Haulashore Cove without the need for any shore lines. This was our first swing anchorage in Fiordland. There were several lovely U shaped valleys leading off from this arm.
On Tuesday morning we set off even earlier than normal hoping to avoid any strong winds by crossing the main fjord before 10am. After 10am the wind tends to pick up. Our destination was Blanket Bay, at the south eastern end of Secretary Island. We had a pleasant trip across and tied up alongside a historic wharf, with an old shack built on the wharf called 'The Blanket Bay Hotel'. This was a hub for fishermen and appeared to still be in use with an array of fishing buoys, ropes, etc inside and around the old building. There was a helipad adjoining the wharf that is used to transport crayfish out. We filled our water tanks here as there is a fresh water hose available. After leaving the wharf we picked up a mooring and tied up to a pre set stern line provided by fishermen. The cold front that we had been hearing about on the radio weather forecasts began to set in with heavy rain all afternoon. We spoke with three sea kayakers who paddled by. They were doing their own private trip and had been camping and staying at huts around the sound. After chatting with them for awhile we discovered that they had been to Antarctica on Spirit with our good friend Ben Tucker as first mate. They spoke very highly of Ben and the good times they had down there.
Today (Wednesday) a fresh south easterly breeze began to pick up and was blowing into our anchorage so we decided it was time to move. Before leaving we spoke to a guy from DOC who was in a run about and was with a crew who were checking stoat traps along the shore on Secretary Island. There are a few islands south of here that are part or whole pest free. The pests being possums, rats, mice and stoats. They are trying to increase the native bird population on these islands. An hour and a half after leaving Blanket Bay we dropped anchor at the head of First Arm in Snug Cove, our second swing anchorage. Not long after arriving we kayaked around First Arm in the beautiful warm sunshine. It was low tide and there were mussels everywhere, so we collected some for dinner. We are once again surrounded by breathtaking views of the mountains.
Tomorrow we hope to sail south to Daag Sound as the weather forecast is favourable. All is great on board. Wayne and Kathy
----------
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Saturday, 21 February 2015
Deep Cove
Date 21/02/2015 Time 11.40
We have picked up a mooring at Deep Cove which is a tour and charter boat hub for the southern fiords. Since our last blog entry we explored Gaer Arm by kayak. We set out from base camp Ambler and paddled around Macdonnell Island then across a wide section of Bradshaw Sound shaping a course towards the right headland of Gaer Arm. Halfway across we found ourselves surrounded by locals - the resident population of Bottlenose Dolphins were passing through. The waters were still and the air silent except for the splash and breath of each dolphin, some passing only metres away from us. The cloud hung still over many of the peaks as if ensnared by them. Similarly the dolphins breath hung in a misty puff for a minute after they had dived. A truly magical experience. The reflections were worthy of many photos as we paddled to the head of Gaer Arm. We came back along the true right bank to a shorter crossing to our island.
By the way sorry for the lack of photos posted as our limited email connection travels over HF radio to a shore station in outback NSW in the form of screeches and squeals at speeds of about half that of your first ever copper cable modem. We will send photos when we get back to civilisation. Probably Bluff in a few weeks time.
That night we shared our tie in with an old ferry converted for accommodation and three smaller runabouts. One of which had caught two too many crayfish for dinner so we received them graciously. The Fiordland hospitality is really amazing.
On Thursday we set out for Deep Cove with misty passing showers and beams of bright sunlight behind us, we found ourselves heading straight for a rainbow which was touching down on each bank of the sound forming an archway ahead of us. A light tailwind greeted us as we turned into Doubtful Sound and allowed us to enjoy the silent quality of our surroundings again without Mr Perkins, our diesel engine, interjecting.
On arrival at Deep Cove, we put a radio call through to the hostel manager Billy, who kindly directed us to a mooring close by that we could use. We went ashore soon after and had a cuppa with Billy and his wife Wilma who makes delicious biscuits. With Billy's help were able to plan the next day's adventure in the form of a few bushwalks (tramps) in the valley.
So on Friday we walked along the Old Doubtful Sound track for an hour to the Wilmot Pass Road, then up a bulldozer track to Stella Falls. After that we walked back along the road to another track which led us to Helena falls and some encounters with rare Kiwis only to discover later that they were the common Wekas. Apparently kiwis are twice the size of a weka and are nocturnal. So some night walks may be in order! We then back tracked to visit the tailrace exit tunnel. There is an underground Hydro Station here that generates power from Lake Manapouri and redirects a lot of this energy to an Aluminium Smelter at Bluff.
We awoke this morning (Saturday) to a breeze blowing straight up the fiord bringing rain with it. We had a visit from a fishing charter boat 'Jewel' who kindly offered to take one of our empty gas bottles and refill it for us. We will catch up later on down the coast to collect it. We have been on our last gas bottle for ten days now and they usually last around 3 to 4 weeks. Our back up plan is the petrol hiking stove.
All is well and relaxed on board. Kathy and Wayne
-----
At 19/02/2015 8:57 AM (utc) our position was 45°27.77'S 167°09.37'E
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We have picked up a mooring at Deep Cove which is a tour and charter boat hub for the southern fiords. Since our last blog entry we explored Gaer Arm by kayak. We set out from base camp Ambler and paddled around Macdonnell Island then across a wide section of Bradshaw Sound shaping a course towards the right headland of Gaer Arm. Halfway across we found ourselves surrounded by locals - the resident population of Bottlenose Dolphins were passing through. The waters were still and the air silent except for the splash and breath of each dolphin, some passing only metres away from us. The cloud hung still over many of the peaks as if ensnared by them. Similarly the dolphins breath hung in a misty puff for a minute after they had dived. A truly magical experience. The reflections were worthy of many photos as we paddled to the head of Gaer Arm. We came back along the true right bank to a shorter crossing to our island.
By the way sorry for the lack of photos posted as our limited email connection travels over HF radio to a shore station in outback NSW in the form of screeches and squeals at speeds of about half that of your first ever copper cable modem. We will send photos when we get back to civilisation. Probably Bluff in a few weeks time.
That night we shared our tie in with an old ferry converted for accommodation and three smaller runabouts. One of which had caught two too many crayfish for dinner so we received them graciously. The Fiordland hospitality is really amazing.
On Thursday we set out for Deep Cove with misty passing showers and beams of bright sunlight behind us, we found ourselves heading straight for a rainbow which was touching down on each bank of the sound forming an archway ahead of us. A light tailwind greeted us as we turned into Doubtful Sound and allowed us to enjoy the silent quality of our surroundings again without Mr Perkins, our diesel engine, interjecting.
On arrival at Deep Cove, we put a radio call through to the hostel manager Billy, who kindly directed us to a mooring close by that we could use. We went ashore soon after and had a cuppa with Billy and his wife Wilma who makes delicious biscuits. With Billy's help were able to plan the next day's adventure in the form of a few bushwalks (tramps) in the valley.
So on Friday we walked along the Old Doubtful Sound track for an hour to the Wilmot Pass Road, then up a bulldozer track to Stella Falls. After that we walked back along the road to another track which led us to Helena falls and some encounters with rare Kiwis only to discover later that they were the common Wekas. Apparently kiwis are twice the size of a weka and are nocturnal. So some night walks may be in order! We then back tracked to visit the tailrace exit tunnel. There is an underground Hydro Station here that generates power from Lake Manapouri and redirects a lot of this energy to an Aluminium Smelter at Bluff.
We awoke this morning (Saturday) to a breeze blowing straight up the fiord bringing rain with it. We had a visit from a fishing charter boat 'Jewel' who kindly offered to take one of our empty gas bottles and refill it for us. We will catch up later on down the coast to collect it. We have been on our last gas bottle for ten days now and they usually last around 3 to 4 weeks. Our back up plan is the petrol hiking stove.
All is well and relaxed on board. Kathy and Wayne
-----
At 19/02/2015 8:57 AM (utc) our position was 45°27.77'S 167°09.37'E
----------
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Wednesday, 18 February 2015
Thompson and Bradshaw Sound
Date: 17/02/15 Time: 17.45 Position: Macdonnell Island, Precipice Cove, Bradshaw Sound
Today we had a great sail. After leaving Nancy Sound early this morning we had a tailwind from a northerly breeze of about 8 knots. Thompson Sound is only about 2.5nm south of Nancy Sound. Before we knew it we had sailed into Thompson Sound with an increasing tail wind carrying us along the sound with just our headsail out. The mountains were draped in low cloud and rain seemed to be falling either in front, behind or beside us but never actually on us. We saw two sea kayakers paddling across the sound abeam of us in their yellow and white kayaks.
Thompson Sound is part of the Doubtful Sound fjord complex which is comprised of the three sounds; Thompson, Bradshaw and Doubtful which all interconnect and have two entrances to the sea. This sound complex is a popular destination with large cruise ships. Two such cruise ships were identified on our AIS (Automatic Identification System) but we weren't in line of sight of either vessels.
As we scooted along the wide stretch that makes up Thompson Sound we decided to explore Bradshaw Sound before going on to Doubtful Sound in the next few days. After entering Bradshaw the wind dropped away and the low cloud lifted to expose the jagged skyline surrounding us. We could see a definite line of difference between the alpine environment and the lower forested hills. It was spectacular and very enticing, if only there wasn't all that scrub between us and the peaks.
We are tucked in behind Macdonnell Island with our anchor down and two stern lines out. All is well on board with the catch of the day for dinner. Kathy and Wayne
-----
At 16/02/2015 8:42 AM (utc) our position was 45°10.41'S 167°08.80'E
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Today we had a great sail. After leaving Nancy Sound early this morning we had a tailwind from a northerly breeze of about 8 knots. Thompson Sound is only about 2.5nm south of Nancy Sound. Before we knew it we had sailed into Thompson Sound with an increasing tail wind carrying us along the sound with just our headsail out. The mountains were draped in low cloud and rain seemed to be falling either in front, behind or beside us but never actually on us. We saw two sea kayakers paddling across the sound abeam of us in their yellow and white kayaks.
Thompson Sound is part of the Doubtful Sound fjord complex which is comprised of the three sounds; Thompson, Bradshaw and Doubtful which all interconnect and have two entrances to the sea. This sound complex is a popular destination with large cruise ships. Two such cruise ships were identified on our AIS (Automatic Identification System) but we weren't in line of sight of either vessels.
As we scooted along the wide stretch that makes up Thompson Sound we decided to explore Bradshaw Sound before going on to Doubtful Sound in the next few days. After entering Bradshaw the wind dropped away and the low cloud lifted to expose the jagged skyline surrounding us. We could see a definite line of difference between the alpine environment and the lower forested hills. It was spectacular and very enticing, if only there wasn't all that scrub between us and the peaks.
We are tucked in behind Macdonnell Island with our anchor down and two stern lines out. All is well on board with the catch of the day for dinner. Kathy and Wayne
-----
At 16/02/2015 8:42 AM (utc) our position was 45°10.41'S 167°08.80'E
----------
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Monday, 16 February 2015
Nancy Sound
Date: 16/02/15 Time: 16.30 Position: Toe Cove, Nancy Sound
Yesterday we had a lovely day kayaking around Gold Arm in Charles Sound. Gold Arm has been dedicated a marine reserve as have several other sections within most of the fjords. As we paddled towards the head of the fjord there were stunning reflections in the tanin coloured water. The hillsides in all the fjords we have visited have had random scars left from landslides. These scars give you a good idea of how steep the hill sides are under the trees and how little soil these trees actually need to grow. As we neared the head of the fjord where the Windward River entered, the water became very shallow with a sandy bottom and we were able to see a Flounder and several beautiful sting rays that glided elegantly under us. There was also a large flock of black swans congregating at the head waters. We passed a helipad that had been constructed just away from the shore with an adjoining floating pontoon for fishing boats to tie up to so that their crayfish can be air lifted out. Further back up the arm we saw some fish jumping and when we paddled past, a small school of quite large king fish swam near the surface. If only we had our rod with us and if it wasn't a marine reserve.
Today (Monday) we made an early start and were underway by 7.30am. Gold Arm was calm and still again but once we joined the main section of the fjord we had a light tail wind so we hoisted the Code O and enjoyed a gentle sail out of Charles Sound at 3 knots. Once along the coast the breeze came and went so we had a mixture of sailing and motoring. Further down the coast we could see a fishing boat attending to its crayfish pots close to the rocks. This was the first time since Bligh Sound that we have seen any other boat. We saw heaps of shearwaters flying close to the water or resting in rafts on the smooth surface. When the motor was off it was nice to listen to the sound of the waves crashing against the rocks about 2nm off our beam. This section of the coastline is very close to the continental shelf where it drops off to over 1000m deep. Only 4nm south of Charles Sound we turned into Nancy Sound. With the wind behind us once again we sailed with our Code O all the way up the leg of the fjord, around the heel which was a 90 degree bend, along the foot to the end of the fjord where we dropped anchor in Toe Cove. Nancy Sound is 15km long and is shaped like a leg, hence the names. It is a very impressive fjord with steep sides and shapely peaks with more peaks jutting out from the mountains beyond.
With a good forecast for tomorrow of north easterly 15 knots we will continue on to Thompson Sound.
All is well on board. Kathy and Wayne
----------
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Yesterday we had a lovely day kayaking around Gold Arm in Charles Sound. Gold Arm has been dedicated a marine reserve as have several other sections within most of the fjords. As we paddled towards the head of the fjord there were stunning reflections in the tanin coloured water. The hillsides in all the fjords we have visited have had random scars left from landslides. These scars give you a good idea of how steep the hill sides are under the trees and how little soil these trees actually need to grow. As we neared the head of the fjord where the Windward River entered, the water became very shallow with a sandy bottom and we were able to see a Flounder and several beautiful sting rays that glided elegantly under us. There was also a large flock of black swans congregating at the head waters. We passed a helipad that had been constructed just away from the shore with an adjoining floating pontoon for fishing boats to tie up to so that their crayfish can be air lifted out. Further back up the arm we saw some fish jumping and when we paddled past, a small school of quite large king fish swam near the surface. If only we had our rod with us and if it wasn't a marine reserve.
Today (Monday) we made an early start and were underway by 7.30am. Gold Arm was calm and still again but once we joined the main section of the fjord we had a light tail wind so we hoisted the Code O and enjoyed a gentle sail out of Charles Sound at 3 knots. Once along the coast the breeze came and went so we had a mixture of sailing and motoring. Further down the coast we could see a fishing boat attending to its crayfish pots close to the rocks. This was the first time since Bligh Sound that we have seen any other boat. We saw heaps of shearwaters flying close to the water or resting in rafts on the smooth surface. When the motor was off it was nice to listen to the sound of the waves crashing against the rocks about 2nm off our beam. This section of the coastline is very close to the continental shelf where it drops off to over 1000m deep. Only 4nm south of Charles Sound we turned into Nancy Sound. With the wind behind us once again we sailed with our Code O all the way up the leg of the fjord, around the heel which was a 90 degree bend, along the foot to the end of the fjord where we dropped anchor in Toe Cove. Nancy Sound is 15km long and is shaped like a leg, hence the names. It is a very impressive fjord with steep sides and shapely peaks with more peaks jutting out from the mountains beyond.
With a good forecast for tomorrow of north easterly 15 knots we will continue on to Thompson Sound.
All is well on board. Kathy and Wayne
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Saturday, 14 February 2015
Charles Sound
Date: 14/02/15 Time: 18.30 Position: Catherine Island, Charles Sound
We had a relaxing stay in Caswell Sound with fine weather. Yesterday morning we set out in our kayaks in mill pond conditions to paddle across to the head of the fjord where the Stillwater River runs into it. After pulling our kayaks up the rocky beach we were greeted by a friendly, curious little bird who flitted about sitting on our kayaks, paddles and even trying to land on Wayne's head. We changed into our walking boots with the intention of visiting the historic Caswell Hut close by and then walking up to Lake Marchant. Finding the short track to the hut overgrown and quite waterlogged and our legs still sore from our walk a few days earlier we opted out of continuing onto the lake. The old hut was still in good condition and from reading the visitors book seems to have provided shelter to a few sea kayakers paddling this rugged coastline. After re launching our kayaks a strong south easterly breeze had developed and by the time we had paddled around the head of the fjord the bay was full of white caps. As our anchorage was exposed to the south east we thought it best to return to the boat and check its condition. The boat was fine and the tall trees just five metres from our stern were protecting us from most of the wind. However, just to make sure we set up another shoreline.
Today we had a fast sail out of Caswell Sound with just the headsail out and the wind directly behind us at SE 20 knots. As we left the entrance we experienced stronger wind gusts as the wind was piping out of the fjord so we furled the headsail slightly. Once along the coast the wind was still easterly but had moderated to about 15 knots. It was only a short sail of about 2.5nm to the entrance of Charles Sound where we met the wind piping out of that fjord right on the nose. We can't win them all! We had about five albatrosses on the way in to Charles Sound just soaring and gliding seemingly effortlessly on the wind around us.
Charles Sound is 13.9km long and divides into two arms at the end. We are tied alongside a very thick rope that stretches from Catherine Island to another little islet near it within the Gold Arm. We are sitting here with dinner cooking whilst at least five sandflies soar seemingly effortlessly around the cabin planning their moment of attack on a bare patch of our skin. Ouch! Slap!
All is well on board. Happy Valentine's Day. Kathy and Wayne
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We had a relaxing stay in Caswell Sound with fine weather. Yesterday morning we set out in our kayaks in mill pond conditions to paddle across to the head of the fjord where the Stillwater River runs into it. After pulling our kayaks up the rocky beach we were greeted by a friendly, curious little bird who flitted about sitting on our kayaks, paddles and even trying to land on Wayne's head. We changed into our walking boots with the intention of visiting the historic Caswell Hut close by and then walking up to Lake Marchant. Finding the short track to the hut overgrown and quite waterlogged and our legs still sore from our walk a few days earlier we opted out of continuing onto the lake. The old hut was still in good condition and from reading the visitors book seems to have provided shelter to a few sea kayakers paddling this rugged coastline. After re launching our kayaks a strong south easterly breeze had developed and by the time we had paddled around the head of the fjord the bay was full of white caps. As our anchorage was exposed to the south east we thought it best to return to the boat and check its condition. The boat was fine and the tall trees just five metres from our stern were protecting us from most of the wind. However, just to make sure we set up another shoreline.
Today we had a fast sail out of Caswell Sound with just the headsail out and the wind directly behind us at SE 20 knots. As we left the entrance we experienced stronger wind gusts as the wind was piping out of the fjord so we furled the headsail slightly. Once along the coast the wind was still easterly but had moderated to about 15 knots. It was only a short sail of about 2.5nm to the entrance of Charles Sound where we met the wind piping out of that fjord right on the nose. We can't win them all! We had about five albatrosses on the way in to Charles Sound just soaring and gliding seemingly effortlessly on the wind around us.
Charles Sound is 13.9km long and divides into two arms at the end. We are tied alongside a very thick rope that stretches from Catherine Island to another little islet near it within the Gold Arm. We are sitting here with dinner cooking whilst at least five sandflies soar seemingly effortlessly around the cabin planning their moment of attack on a bare patch of our skin. Ouch! Slap!
All is well on board. Happy Valentine's Day. Kathy and Wayne
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Wednesday, 11 February 2015
Caswell Sound
Date: 11/01/15 Time: 17.45pm Position: Caswell Sound
We had a great two days in George Sound with sunny skies. On our first morning we awoke to see the waterfall (Alice Falls) at our anchorage had doubled in volume and there were a few new creeks running into the bay that hadn't been there the afternoon before. We had had a solid night of rain and our water containers were full as well as the dinghy (Oops!). It's great to be able to collect our own rainwater. That day we went kayaking and explored the South West Arm which is the second arm of George Sound. Needless to say we saw countless waterfalls with quite a few coming over the sheer cliffs above us and landing straight into the water. A lot of these waterfalls had disappeared by the time we sailed out two days later. We collected enough mussels for our dinner off a submerged rope that had been left hanging from a branch. Since it was such a clear day we had an awesome view of the high, rocky skylines. Most of the peaks surrounding this sound were around 1500m. On our way back to the boat we saw three spouts in the air above the water ahead of us. Thinking they were dolphins we headed over in that general direction. However, they were not dolphins because they did not resurface even though we waited for twenty minutes and the water spouts were much higher and wider than a dolphin. Perhaps they were small, toothed whales?
Yesterday morning was chilly as we dinghied across the bay to George Sound Hut. It is a hut run by the Department of Conservation and sleeps up to eight people. It is part of the walk called the George Sound Track that goes from George Sound to Lake Te Anau. We followed this track up alongside Katherine Creek to Lake Katherine and then onto Henry Pass at 830m. It was a beautiful walk through rainforest and became very steep as we reached the pass. On the track we saw many elk prints in the muddier sections and as we began to cross a clearer area we saw an elk with huge antlers grazing in the clearing. I don't how they move through the forest with those huge antlers. As we ascended out of the scrub into the alpine environment we saw several different types of wildflowers. It was fantastic to be at this high elevation and the view was great with not a cloud in the sky. By the time we returned to the dinghy after 10 1/2 hours of walking and climbing 830m we were absolutely exhausted.
Today (Wednesday) we had a weather forecast for 10 knot variable winds so we left George Sound for Caswell Sound 13nm down the coast. Once offshore we had a headwind from the south west of less than 5 knots in rolly conditions. It wasn't the most agreeable or comfortable trip down. We are now anchored at the head of Caswell Sound in quite a nice, open anchorage with the anchor down and one sternline ashore.
All is well with the aroma of baking bread coming from the galley. Kathy and Wayne
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We had a great two days in George Sound with sunny skies. On our first morning we awoke to see the waterfall (Alice Falls) at our anchorage had doubled in volume and there were a few new creeks running into the bay that hadn't been there the afternoon before. We had had a solid night of rain and our water containers were full as well as the dinghy (Oops!). It's great to be able to collect our own rainwater. That day we went kayaking and explored the South West Arm which is the second arm of George Sound. Needless to say we saw countless waterfalls with quite a few coming over the sheer cliffs above us and landing straight into the water. A lot of these waterfalls had disappeared by the time we sailed out two days later. We collected enough mussels for our dinner off a submerged rope that had been left hanging from a branch. Since it was such a clear day we had an awesome view of the high, rocky skylines. Most of the peaks surrounding this sound were around 1500m. On our way back to the boat we saw three spouts in the air above the water ahead of us. Thinking they were dolphins we headed over in that general direction. However, they were not dolphins because they did not resurface even though we waited for twenty minutes and the water spouts were much higher and wider than a dolphin. Perhaps they were small, toothed whales?
Yesterday morning was chilly as we dinghied across the bay to George Sound Hut. It is a hut run by the Department of Conservation and sleeps up to eight people. It is part of the walk called the George Sound Track that goes from George Sound to Lake Te Anau. We followed this track up alongside Katherine Creek to Lake Katherine and then onto Henry Pass at 830m. It was a beautiful walk through rainforest and became very steep as we reached the pass. On the track we saw many elk prints in the muddier sections and as we began to cross a clearer area we saw an elk with huge antlers grazing in the clearing. I don't how they move through the forest with those huge antlers. As we ascended out of the scrub into the alpine environment we saw several different types of wildflowers. It was fantastic to be at this high elevation and the view was great with not a cloud in the sky. By the time we returned to the dinghy after 10 1/2 hours of walking and climbing 830m we were absolutely exhausted.
Today (Wednesday) we had a weather forecast for 10 knot variable winds so we left George Sound for Caswell Sound 13nm down the coast. Once offshore we had a headwind from the south west of less than 5 knots in rolly conditions. It wasn't the most agreeable or comfortable trip down. We are now anchored at the head of Caswell Sound in quite a nice, open anchorage with the anchor down and one sternline ashore.
All is well with the aroma of baking bread coming from the galley. Kathy and Wayne
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Sunday, 8 February 2015
George Sound
Date: 8/01/15 Time: 17:00 Position: Alice Falls Anchorage, George Sound
On Friday morning the sun came out and we had glorious weather and were able to appreciate the clear mountain vistas from the boat. Since it was sunny and calm weather within the sound we decided we would go for a full day paddle down to the entrance of Bligh Sound. We saw many waterfalls cascading down through steep forested gullies gushing full of water due to the vast quantity of rain we had received in the days prior. Along the way we had a gull squawking at us as we rounded a rocky corner. At first we couldn't work out what its problem was until we reached the other side of the small cove to see the gull's young chick resting on the rocks covered in its downy feathers. Further along we spotted a pod of dolphins heading downstream, before long they were not far in front of us and some of the younger dolphins were leaping about two metres out of the air. It was very exciting to be so close to all this action. One of the older, bigger dolphins came over and swam around our kayaks checking us out. We were to see this pod of dolphins several times again traveling up and down the sound feeding and frolicking. Near the entrance to the sound we saw several fishing boats buzzing about and that night one of them, a 25 foot boat rafted alongside us. They were very friendly guys from Gore and generously gave us two crayfish and a great boating guide for Fiordland called 'Beneath the Reflections'. If you are interested in looking at this guide you can find it in an electronic format at www.fmg.org.nz
On Saturday afternoon the wind was supposed to abate to 15 knot SW so we thought we would head down to the entrance and have a look. But we didn't like what we encountered as it was still blowing 20 knots from the SW and the sea was very rough. So we turned around and were able to sail all the way back to our anchorage with the wind directly behind us even though we sailed around two 90 degree bends and included one reach of the sound that trends South West.
We woke up early this morning (Sunday) and were underway by 7am as the coastal forecast was for 10 knot variable winds. It seems to be that it is either a gale down here or it's a 10 knot variable wind. There doesn't seem to be much in between! We were lucky and had a pleasant 5nm sail down the coast to George Sound. On the way we saw heaps of birds and we have identified an albatross we haven't seen before. From looking at our bird identification books we think it is the grey headed albatross. On entering George Sound the surrounding high peaks were hidden behind low cloud as we sailed to the end of this 21.5km sound. At the end of the sound there are two arms and we are anchored in the south-eastern arm at Alice Falls. Once again we have our own private waterfall! After dropping the anchor we spent the next hour in the dinghy tying our two stern and two bow lines to trees around the shore to ensure a safe and comfortable night as a SW 35 knot change (yet another gale warning for this area) is due.
We hope to enjoy George Sound for two days before moving onto Caswell Sound on Wednesday when lighter winds are expected.
Kathy and Wayne
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On Friday morning the sun came out and we had glorious weather and were able to appreciate the clear mountain vistas from the boat. Since it was sunny and calm weather within the sound we decided we would go for a full day paddle down to the entrance of Bligh Sound. We saw many waterfalls cascading down through steep forested gullies gushing full of water due to the vast quantity of rain we had received in the days prior. Along the way we had a gull squawking at us as we rounded a rocky corner. At first we couldn't work out what its problem was until we reached the other side of the small cove to see the gull's young chick resting on the rocks covered in its downy feathers. Further along we spotted a pod of dolphins heading downstream, before long they were not far in front of us and some of the younger dolphins were leaping about two metres out of the air. It was very exciting to be so close to all this action. One of the older, bigger dolphins came over and swam around our kayaks checking us out. We were to see this pod of dolphins several times again traveling up and down the sound feeding and frolicking. Near the entrance to the sound we saw several fishing boats buzzing about and that night one of them, a 25 foot boat rafted alongside us. They were very friendly guys from Gore and generously gave us two crayfish and a great boating guide for Fiordland called 'Beneath the Reflections'. If you are interested in looking at this guide you can find it in an electronic format at www.fmg.org.nz
On Saturday afternoon the wind was supposed to abate to 15 knot SW so we thought we would head down to the entrance and have a look. But we didn't like what we encountered as it was still blowing 20 knots from the SW and the sea was very rough. So we turned around and were able to sail all the way back to our anchorage with the wind directly behind us even though we sailed around two 90 degree bends and included one reach of the sound that trends South West.
We woke up early this morning (Sunday) and were underway by 7am as the coastal forecast was for 10 knot variable winds. It seems to be that it is either a gale down here or it's a 10 knot variable wind. There doesn't seem to be much in between! We were lucky and had a pleasant 5nm sail down the coast to George Sound. On the way we saw heaps of birds and we have identified an albatross we haven't seen before. From looking at our bird identification books we think it is the grey headed albatross. On entering George Sound the surrounding high peaks were hidden behind low cloud as we sailed to the end of this 21.5km sound. At the end of the sound there are two arms and we are anchored in the south-eastern arm at Alice Falls. Once again we have our own private waterfall! After dropping the anchor we spent the next hour in the dinghy tying our two stern and two bow lines to trees around the shore to ensure a safe and comfortable night as a SW 35 knot change (yet another gale warning for this area) is due.
We hope to enjoy George Sound for two days before moving onto Caswell Sound on Wednesday when lighter winds are expected.
Kathy and Wayne
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Thursday, 5 February 2015
Sandflies, Snow and Dolphins
Date: 5/2/2015 Time: 2000 NZDST Position: Bounty Haven
Oh how it has rained over the last three days and the temperature has dropped. The sky suddenly cleared an hour ago so we went topside to see the clouds lifting off the snow capped peaks around us. The sound and sight of many waterfalls pervade the atmosphere of the bay. We then spotted a pod of dolphins herding fish around the bay.
We have been here in Bligh Sound, storm bound since Sunday and hope to sail to our next Fjord called George Sound as soon as the winds and seas abate, perhaps Sunday. We have enjoyed fish for dinner every second night and it only takes 10 minutes for the right size fish to select our baited hook. We have been doing lots of reading and we set up the sewing machine and made a new rain catching awning, a back hatch cover, a chart bag and a new cover for the life ring. The clouds of sandflies wait patiently at the companionway for us to emerge but when we do the dettol and baby oil mix deters their feasting on our blood. The cloud of sandflies follow us around on deck hoping to find a way through the vapour to get at us.
We hope to go for another kayak to explore further a field tomorrow in the sunshine?
All is well(and a little damp)on board. Wayne and Kathy
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Oh how it has rained over the last three days and the temperature has dropped. The sky suddenly cleared an hour ago so we went topside to see the clouds lifting off the snow capped peaks around us. The sound and sight of many waterfalls pervade the atmosphere of the bay. We then spotted a pod of dolphins herding fish around the bay.
We have been here in Bligh Sound, storm bound since Sunday and hope to sail to our next Fjord called George Sound as soon as the winds and seas abate, perhaps Sunday. We have enjoyed fish for dinner every second night and it only takes 10 minutes for the right size fish to select our baited hook. We have been doing lots of reading and we set up the sewing machine and made a new rain catching awning, a back hatch cover, a chart bag and a new cover for the life ring. The clouds of sandflies wait patiently at the companionway for us to emerge but when we do the dettol and baby oil mix deters their feasting on our blood. The cloud of sandflies follow us around on deck hoping to find a way through the vapour to get at us.
We hope to go for another kayak to explore further a field tomorrow in the sunshine?
All is well(and a little damp)on board. Wayne and Kathy
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Sunday, 1 February 2015
Crayfish for dinner
Date 31/01/15 Time 17.00 Position Bounty Haven, Bligh Sound
We are now anchored at the end of Bligh Sound at an anchorage named Bounty Haven. We are tucked into a little cove with a shoreline from the stern to a tree and a waterfall behind us. Bligh Sound is 10 miles long and has several anchorage options depending on the wind direction you need protection from. Bligh Sound feels more rugged then Milford. The hills (although they are called mountains) as that is what they appear like compared to Milford's towering peaks are not as steep and are covered in trees. The skylines are rocky and craggy. When we entered the sound yesterday afternoon the low, misty rain clouds were very atmospheric with the slopes ahead of us unfolding in different shades of grey as we made our way along the sound.
Yesterday morning before we left our anchorage at Milford I rowed ashore to dispose of our rubbish and to fill up our two water containers at the wharf. Whist I was filling the containers a crayfish boat was off loading its catch into the back of a truck. When the fishermen had finished loading the truck they noticed a crayfish that had fallen out of the crate and who was the lucky recipient of that crayfish? Me!
It was a 17 mile combination of sailing and motoring to Bligh Sound from Milford as the winds were still light. We passed by Sutherland Sound as you can only access the entrance to this sound as a sandbar prevents boats going any further. Along the coast we had to keep an eye out for floating buoys which marked the location of crayfish pots. We saw several rafts of up to about a hundred shearwaters, lots of seals and three sharks. Not long after we entered Bligh Sound we saw five Fiordland Penguins swimming across our bow and another one this morning when we went kayaking. From the boat this morning we could see fish splashing about on the surface, so Wayne took his fishing rod with him on the kayak and we hadn't gone very far when Wayne caught a 70cm long Barracouta. Because it was such a big fish and we hadn't taken a net with us I towed Wayne holding onto his fish back to the boat. After our big catch we paddled all around this end of the sound and we were even able to paddle up the Wild Natives River for some way until we met rapids. The water near the edge is clear enough to see the rocks and fish below and there are lots of small waterfalls running into the sound.
As I type this Wayne is putting his folding crayfish pot together since he now has a fish head to use as bait! If Bounty Haven continues to provide our bounty we may not need to move on for quite some time. Plus there is a gale blowing off shore so we are in no rush.
All is well on board. Wayne and Kathy
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We are now anchored at the end of Bligh Sound at an anchorage named Bounty Haven. We are tucked into a little cove with a shoreline from the stern to a tree and a waterfall behind us. Bligh Sound is 10 miles long and has several anchorage options depending on the wind direction you need protection from. Bligh Sound feels more rugged then Milford. The hills (although they are called mountains) as that is what they appear like compared to Milford's towering peaks are not as steep and are covered in trees. The skylines are rocky and craggy. When we entered the sound yesterday afternoon the low, misty rain clouds were very atmospheric with the slopes ahead of us unfolding in different shades of grey as we made our way along the sound.
Yesterday morning before we left our anchorage at Milford I rowed ashore to dispose of our rubbish and to fill up our two water containers at the wharf. Whist I was filling the containers a crayfish boat was off loading its catch into the back of a truck. When the fishermen had finished loading the truck they noticed a crayfish that had fallen out of the crate and who was the lucky recipient of that crayfish? Me!
It was a 17 mile combination of sailing and motoring to Bligh Sound from Milford as the winds were still light. We passed by Sutherland Sound as you can only access the entrance to this sound as a sandbar prevents boats going any further. Along the coast we had to keep an eye out for floating buoys which marked the location of crayfish pots. We saw several rafts of up to about a hundred shearwaters, lots of seals and three sharks. Not long after we entered Bligh Sound we saw five Fiordland Penguins swimming across our bow and another one this morning when we went kayaking. From the boat this morning we could see fish splashing about on the surface, so Wayne took his fishing rod with him on the kayak and we hadn't gone very far when Wayne caught a 70cm long Barracouta. Because it was such a big fish and we hadn't taken a net with us I towed Wayne holding onto his fish back to the boat. After our big catch we paddled all around this end of the sound and we were even able to paddle up the Wild Natives River for some way until we met rapids. The water near the edge is clear enough to see the rocks and fish below and there are lots of small waterfalls running into the sound.
As I type this Wayne is putting his folding crayfish pot together since he now has a fish head to use as bait! If Bounty Haven continues to provide our bounty we may not need to move on for quite some time. Plus there is a gale blowing off shore so we are in no rush.
All is well on board. Wayne and Kathy
----------
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