Monday 20 July 2015

Auckland

Date: 20/07/15 Position: Pier 21 Marina, Auckland

The southerly change come through around 3am on Wednesday night with thunder, lightning and heavy rain. Thankfully it was only a light southerly change of 15-20 knots and not gale force strength which seems to be the pattern lately when a change comes through. This southerly change gave us a two day weather window to reach Hauraki Gulf before another pre-frontal northerly was due to start.

On Thursday morning we left Tauranga Harbour on the high tide after waiting for the pilot to guide a heavily loaded container ship through the harbour entrance channel. Once in the outer channel we were met by a three metre northerly swell that had developed as a northerly gale had been blowing for the previous couple of days. The swell died down as the morning progressed and it was a really pleasant sail up the coast of the Coromandel Peninsula to Opito Bay where we anchored for the night. We saw numerous flocks of what we think are fluttering shearwaters and diving petrels. The diving petrels are quite entertaining little birds. As Ambler approached a raft of these little birds they would either dive under water and disappear like penguins do, or they would flutter their wings madly and lift themselves just off the surface. But some did not fly high enough as each wave crest would hit their belly as they fluttered over the water, before landing with a plop a short distance away. When the fluttering shearwaters were all airborne and flying in unison it looked marvelous as they were either all black or white depending which way they turned.

On dark we approached a channel called Hole in the Wall. This we passed through in the dark before conning our way into Opito Bay with the help of the radar, the depth sounder, the moving map display and our keen eyesight. It was a nice calm night on the anchor with just a gentle swell rolling in.

On Friday morning we departed at first light and as the sun rose we were greeted by views of a picturesque bay with lots of small rocky islands silhouetted by the morning sun. These islands dotted the outer entrance to Opito Bay with some larger islands offshore which helped to cancel any leftover northerly swell. On looking back towards the channel called Hole in the Wall we could see where it got its name from as we could see a huge hole in the cliff face.

Friday was another pleasant day of sailing with warm sunshine and a light south westerly breeze. Throughout the day we passed a few seals sleeping with a flipper raised in the air and spotted a few Little Blue Penguins swimming along. In the afternoon we rounded Cape Colville at the northern end of the Coromandel Peninsula and sailed into Hauraki Gulf. Here the breeze became too light and turned more to the west becoming a headwind so we motor sailed for a time then sailed again. Wayne spotted a whale spouting about a mile away but unfortunately we weren't able to see the whale itself. The rest of the afternoon was spent soaking up the warm sunshine and reading. As it grew dark the lights of Auckland lit up the skyline as we made our way to Whangaparaoa Peninsula which is 15nm north of Auckland.

The AIS watchmate system came in very handy as we had to cross the main shipping channel. We chose a gap between three outbound ships which were almost impossible to see due to the profusion of lights of Auckland in the background. We entered Gulf Harbour Marina just before midnight and tied up easily in our pre booked berth.

The northerly hit hard on Saturday with heavy rain and gale force winds in the morning and evening. We managed a walk in the middle of the day when there was a lull in the weather.

Sunday was spent further insulating areas of the boat against the dreaded onslaught of moisture and mould as well as a general clean and tidy up.

Today we left Gulf Harbour about mid morning and sailed to windward with a 25 knot south westerly blowing as we headed to Auckland. It was a fast trip with a double reefed main and full headsail. We saw lots of shearwaters scooting over the waves as well as flocks of terns and gannets diving. We had a few rain squalls pass over and before we knew it we had covered the 19nm to Auckland. We are now tied up alongside at Pier 21 Marina which is a stones throw from the city centre.

All is well on board.

Kathy and Wayne

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Wednesday 15 July 2015

Tauranga

Date: 15/7/15 Position: Pilot Bay, Tauranga Harbour

We had a great time in Napier. It's a small town on the foreshore of the beautiful Hawke Bay. We spent ten days tied up alongside the visitors pontoon at the friendly Napier Sailing Club. There are many great cycle trails in and around Napier and the surrounding countryside. We made the most of the sunny days and either walked or rode these trails. One day we rode into Hastings visiting a few markets on route and rode to the top of Te Mata Peak. The views were stunning and the climb well worth it. After the glorious warm, (16-17 degrees) sunny days came a polar blast from the south with plummeting temperatures and snow falling to 200m in the Hawke Bay area. The higher mountain ranges surrounding the bay were completely white. It was the most snow they have had in 35 years and resulted in lots of road closures. Along with the cold weather came the inevitable strong southerly winds that kept us and the whole fishing fleet securely tied up alongside for several days. The fishing fleet consisted of mainly long line fishing boats and I watched in amazement as a crane lifted individual tuna over a metre in length out of the fish hold and into the back of a waiting tipper truck lined with ice. Whilst at the Sailing Club we had regular visits from what appeared to be either two or three resident seals in the small harbour. They would often swim alongside or bask on the boat ramp or pontoons. It was nice to watch them each day.

On Saturday the 11 July we took advantage of the moderating southerlies and attempted to leave at first light. Once all the shorelines were cast off we discovered our keel was stuck in the mud as it was low tide. With limited maneuverability we managed to turn to face deeper water. We then employed our Perkins Tractor motor to do what it was originally designed for and plough a furrow through the mud to deeper water.

After leaving the small Inner Harbour we had a fast passage across Hawke Bay with a 25 knot wind directly behind us but, a 3 metre swell from the south east on our beam which made this passage rather rolly. Mid afternoon on Saturday we rounded Portland Island and shaped a course north towards East Cape. Ambler immediately settled down with a 25 knot wind off the stern quarter and the swell was taken more comfortably on the stern. We romped along at a brisk 6.5 - 7 knots boat speed with 1.5 knot current on top of that, averaging about 8 knots all through the night to East Cape.

At first light we rounded East Cape the most easterly point of New Zealand. The southerly breeze which had helped us up the east coast began to weaken, perhaps due to the high mountain ranges now to windward of us as we tracked west towards the Bay of Plenty. Our familiar cruising companions the Cape Petrels and the occasional Albatross regularly flew around us. There were also several large rafts of what might have been fluttering shearwaters. They looked similar to the shearwaters we had seen in Marlborough Sounds.

On nearing Cape Runaway the wind fizzled out so much that even the asymmetric sail wouldn't fill. So we motored out of the influence of the mountain ranges past Cape Runaway and into the more open waters of the Bay of Plenty. Only to discover a light 5 knot westerly headwind had developed. It was a pleasant afternoon so we shut the engine down and made the most of the sunny conditions. On the horizon we could see plumes of smoke rising from the active volcano which is called White Island.

At dusk the breeze redeveloped as a southerly and built up to about 15 knots. We experienced a pleasant night of sailing, passing White Island in the dark and arriving at the leads into Tauranga Harbour at dawn on Monday. The channel was quite busy with lots of small fishing boats heading out to make the most of the calm conditions forecasted for that day. Unfortunately the tide was flowing out at about 3.5 knots so we had the engine on hard to make our way in. We motored into Pilot Bay which is behind Mt Maunganui and dropped the anchor.

After a hot shower, eggs on toast and a few hours of sleep we rowed ashore and stretched our legs with all the holiday makers. In the sunshine we enjoyed a walk along the beach and completed a circuit of Mt Maunganui on a nice walking track.

Yesterday we walked from Pilot Bay into Tauranga, dropping off a gas cylinder for testing and refilling as all three of our gas cylinders are due for their ten year retest this year. It was a long walk into the city itself so we caught the bus back in the early evening.

Today was wet and windy so we stayed on board and watched ships entering and leaving the harbour with the assistance of two tug boats only a few hundred metres from our anchorage.

Tomorrow we plan to head north up the east coast of the Coromandel Peninsula.

All is prepared for another passage tomorrow.

Kathy and Wayne

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Friday 3 July 2015

Escaped the Roaring Forties

Date: 3/7/15
Position: The visitors pontoon, Napier Sailing Club

We enjoyed a week in Wellington and had the most consecutive sunny days that we had experienced in a while. It was easy to hop on and off buses and trains to get around and explore the city and surrounding areas. The three highlights of our stay were visiting Te Papa which is the museum of NZ, having a tour of the Metservice office and joining Titus and Nicole on their yacht Gypsy Girl for a Saturday sail in the harbour.

On Tuesday morning we departed Wellington with a gale warning forecast for the northern section of sea area Castlepoint ahead of us, although the grib files only indicated winds of west north west up to 30 knots. The conditions over the following 5 days looked even less favourable with strong head winds, so it was either go now or stay until next week.

We like the detail given by the grib files forecast of predicted wind speed and direction every 3 hours, but it was impossible to ignore a gale warning. Gale warnings are transmitted over the marine radio regularly for those of us foolish enough to be sailing in the sea area affected. The other reason we decided to go was that the wind would be coming off the land and would not build as big a sea as if it was experienced mid ocean.

The tactic we planned to employ was to stay far enough offshore to avoid the wind funnelling through the valleys and to keep east of the steep drop off of the sea bed, thereby avoiding the shallower coast that tends to shorten the wave frequency. This would also avoid the turbulence of the southerly swell as it steepens at the underwater drop off area.

On exiting the harbour channel entrance we again met three inter island ferries. But at least we had the wind with us this time. Once clear of the shipping channel, we turned for Cape Palliser and set the poled out head sail to run wing and wing. It was a clear sunny day, not a cloud to be seen, the snow capped mountains of the Kaikoura range visible again with the occasional Cape Petrel and Albatross carving their circuitous flights in search of a feed.

We rounded Cape Palliser and re shaped the sails to take advantage of the land breeze abeam of us. This point of sailing is called beam reaching and Ambler hits top speed from beam reaching to close reaching where the wind is forward of beam on.

The afternoon wore on and once the sun had set with the full moon already risen to the east we saw two very bright stars, actually planets, above the horizon to the west, one was Venus, the other we later found out was Jupiter. In the evening the breeze began to build and the sail area was suitably reduced to match the conditions.

All went to plan except that we experienced gale force wind for three hours south of the forecasted gale area and were almost becalmed for an hour once we crossed into the actual area forecasted to cop the gale. The wind then built up gradually to gale force again over the next three hours as we transited through. Then the Metservice issued a new gale warning after midnight, this time for the southern section of sea area Portland, which we had just entered. This second gale blew hard for the next five hours and had us surging along at over 6.5 knots with a heavily reefed main and staysail set. It was forecasted to reach 45 knots. We regularly found potholes in the ocean to fall into and breaking seas continously thumped onto the deck. The full moon illuminated the wild ocean as we took turns to huddle under our bombproof hard dodger. Ambler took it all in her stride and stood up and powered through the wind and waves admirably.

By mid Wednesday morning the wind had dropped to around 20 knots. The warm sun shone and highlighted the incredible contours of the rise and falls of the coastal escarpment. At 1045 hours we crossed the 40 degree parallel of latitude and bid farewell to the roaring forties that had just given us an appropriate send off!

The breeze continued to die out as we rounded the spectacular spires and pinacle of Cape Kidnappers and into Hawke Bay. At Cape Kidnappers there is a  Gannet colony and although we couldn't see it from Ambler we saw many gannets diving offshore.

At last light we arrived at the entrance to the small vessel basin to the west of Napier Harbour.  Not long later we were tied up alongside the visitors pontoon at Napier Sailing Club.

After a much appreciated hot shower and a good hose down the next morning all is well and salt free on Ambler again. Till next time....
Kathy and Wayne