Abraham's Bosom, Port Adventure, Stewart Island

Date: 19/04/15 Position: Abraham's Bosom, Port Adventure, Stewart Island

We woke Friday morning to the sound of rain on the cabin top so we snuggled back down under the covers for a few extra hours sleep. By 11 o'clock the rain had eased so we launched the kayaks to go and explore the North Arm of Port Pegasus. The conditions were great with calm water except for the surges from the ocean swell coming through the entrance channels. From Ben's Bay we paddled in a clockwise direction the entire way around North Arm exploring the many bays and inlets as we passed. The sandstone cliffs towered above us as we paddled along listening to the music made by the water as it surged into the caves, tunnels and small hollows in the rocks gurgling, blowing and hissing. It sounded like a wind orchestra. Huge beds of different varieties of kelp rose and fell with the surge exposing rocky reefs as the tide went out. We explored the river basin at the head of Albion Inlet until we came to the first moss covered rocks and short waterfall. The trees overhanging the river still continued to drip with raindrops as we paddled underneath. As we re entered the inlet from the river an inquisitive, playful seal came over to play and swim around our kayaks for quite a while. It was wonderful to watch how graceful and fluid it was in the clear water beneath our kayaks. We entered Settlement Cove in the north west corner of North Arm and had a look at the old ruins from the tin mine town that lasted there for only a few short years. Since the conditions were still good with only a light breeze developing we paddled along the northern shore, across Whale Passage and followed the western shore on the inside of Pearl Island. The shoreline of Pearl Island was rugged and we could hear plenty of bird calls as we paddled along. We even spotted a few rails foraging along the rocks. When we reached the sandstone pinnacles of Hell's Gates with its double eroded arches we headed across to Acheron Passage and over to the North Pegasus' Hunter's Hut. We took shelter here until the rain showers had passed over. As we entered Ben's Bay and were heading back to Ambler we saw a kingfisher flying from branch to branch along the shore. It had been a terrific day.

Saturday brought clear skies and sunshine. The first sun we had seen for over a week. We set about domestic duties with loads of washing hanging from the railings and rigging to dry in the sun. The inside of Ambler got a good cleaning and we insulated a few more areas that tend to get damp with condensation. A few more maintenance jobs were attended to in between enjoying the rare sunshine on deck. We continually maneuvered Ambler between the anchor and the shore lines so as to take the best advantage of the sun on our solar panels. Wayne made a scoop out of the end of the boat hook, some wire and mesh and set off in the dinghy at low tide to scoop up some Bluff Oysters from the shallows at the head of our bay. Bluff Oysters lie on the sand and are unique to the waters around Bluff. We didn't buy any when we were in Bluff because they were $3 each!

Today (Sunday) dawned with high streaky clouds. We consulted the grib file we received by email last night, listened to the forecast and then downloaded a weather fax of the synoptic situation. We were planning to sail north on Monday with the southerly change but it actually looked more beneficial to set out today in the 30 knot north westerly and flat sea conditions. We rapidly got the shore lines in, lashed the dinghy on the foredeck and prepared Ambler for sea as we motored across Port Pegasus and passed through Whale Passage. The sky looked stormy with streaks of blue grey clouds and lenticulars forming above the land. Rain was falling in patches on the horizon. The albatrosses looked terrific when they did wing overs displaying their white bellies and the underside of their wings against the dark, stormy back drop. The stronger the wind, the more aerobatic their displays of flight become.

Once offshore, we unfurled a full headsail and also found we would be taking advantage of a 2 knot current which gave us a speed of 8 knots. An hour later, the wind began to increase so we began to reef the headsail by partially furling it. We estimated the wind had reached 40 knots, it was a bit too much for the headsail, so we furled it away then unfurled the staysail. As the wind began to moderate an hour later we reset the headsail and furled the staysail again. All these sail changes were done from the safety of our cockpit. Ambler's bow continued to plough through the wind waves that had developed, with sheets of spray flying across the foredeck and onto us if we didn't duck under the dodger in time. We were joined at times by small flocks of cape petrels soaring on the wind.

On reaching the entrance to Port Adventure we decided to douse all sail and motor in as the 30 knot wind was blowing straight out of the bay. Once inside Port Adventure and sounding around the anchorage known as Abraham's Bosom in preparation to drop the anchor, we were greeted by a Buller's Albatross which landed just metres from us and stayed with us for 15 minutes, long enough to decide we had no fish to give it before it flew away.

All is well on board. Kathy and Wayne

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