Date 29/01/15 Time 18.35 Position Deep Water Basin, Milford Sound
We have had an amazing time in Milford Sound(Fjord)with lots of adventures. On Australia Day we awoke in the beautiful setting of Harrison Cove with Mt Pembroke which is 2000m high rising above the cove. The morning sun was lighting up the glacier at the top of the peak. We decided to put our kayaks in and paddle around the cove. We like to paddle close to the shore so we can have a good look at the shoreline and all its life. We were rewarded when, there standing on a rock was a Fiordland Crested Penguin. They are about 55cm long with two yellow crests running down either side of their head. We watched each other for a few minutes until the penguin decided to turn around and waddle back to its burrow further back in the bush. We continued paddling around the cove and noticed several blue tags attached to trees. We later discovered that these mark the location of traps that have been left to catch rats and perhaps stoats. If you look into the boxes you can clearly see an egg sitting in the middle tempting these pests. Just inside Harrison Cove is a floating Discovery Centre which the local kayak guide Karl that we had met earlier paddling with a group of tourists invited us to come and visit later in the day. We were waiting in our kayaks along the rocky shore near the the Discovery Centre for a cruise boat to depart so that we could go in and have a look and there swimming only metres in front of us was another Fiordland Penguin! Talk about feeling lucky. Wayne is very good at bird calls and started imitating the call of a Fiordland Penguin and next thing you know Wayne and the penguin are having a conversation with the penguin swimming ever closer to us! We watched Wayne's new mate swim around and then make several unsuccessful attempts to climb up rocks that were too steep until at last it found the right rock and climbed out of the water by using its claws and beak to climb and its wings to balance. It was fascinating to watch. The visit to the Discovery Centre was extremely worthwhile and we would recommend anyone who comes here to visit it.
Early the following morning in the misty, gentle rain we sailed to the end of Milford Sound to an anchorage called Deep Water Basin which is where the crayfish boats operate out of. Some friendly local fisherman helped us tie up along side the fuel wharf and here we topped up the fuel and water tanks. We were slightly taken aback at the cost of diesel at NZ$2 a litre. That's what happens when you are in a remote location. After anchoring in the corner of the bay we dingyed ashore for the 20min walk into Milford. We were searching for some internet connection to send some emails. As being in a fjord we are surrounded by sheer walls and high mountains which makes our HF email link to the HF shore station in Central West NSW, almost impossible to reach. Since entering the fjord we also haven't been able to listen to the weather forecast on the HF radio. So a chat to the local fisherman might be in order. We finally found a dodgy internet service at the tourist terminal for $5 for 15MB and we were able to send an email letting friends and family know we had arrived here safely. We spent the rest of the day doing all the short walks around Milford except for the walk to Bowen Falls since the track had been closed due to a rock fall. When we returned to the boat we noticed a seal frolicking not far away and when it surfaced the afternoon sun caught its breath and whiskers in the sunlight.
On Wednesday the sun broke out and we kayaked to Sandfly Point which is at the end of the Milford Track (a four day NZ Great Walk). The reflections were nice in the calm stillness of the morning. After beaching the kayaks we walked along the Milford Track to Giant Gates Falls and back. The falls were stunning and there were great views along the track of the mountains and Lake Ada. Walking through the rainforest environment gave us a good taste of the wilderness that this track offers. Since we couldn't walk to Bowen Falls the day before we decided that we would kayak around the foreshore to them and walk up to the falls from the shore. This little trip gave us an opportunity to practice our bracing skill as we had a headwind and a bit of wave action. Bowen Falls are 162m high and they were powerful and breathtaking. All the grass and plants under the falls are flattened by the force of the wind coming down. We imagine that Milford Sound would constantly look different depending on the weather and seasons.
Today (Thursday) we decided to do a good long day walk so we walked up the highway for a few kilometres to a historic suspension bridge over the Tutoko River. From here we headed north along a track up into the Tutoko Valley for about three hours. We initially walked through lush, damp rainforest which looked very similiar to the forest found on the west coast of Tassie. There were huge beech trees and lots of clear streams. We saw a flock of little birds busy eating insects off a mossy tree. The track opened up into a wide U-shaped valley surrounded by enormous mountains, two of which were over 2000m high. We still can't believe how huge these mountains are. As we walked through the open valley we could hear the occasional rumble from the Age Glacier that descends from Mt Tutoko (2723m). After lunch we turned around and returned to the boat via the the same route. We are now sharing our anchorage with three other NZ yachts.
If the weather conditions are good tomorrow we will head for Bligh Sound.
All is well on board with a pumpkin curry in the making. Wayne and Kathy
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Thursday 29 January 2015
Tuesday 27 January 2015
Wow, wow and WOW
Date 25/1/2015 Time 21:45 (and still plenty of daylight) Position Milford Sound
The three and a half day voyage down the coast was mostly calm as we were in the middle of a high pressure system or anti-cyclone. We now know why they call highs - anti-cyclones, because they are everything a cyclone isn't. No wind, cloud or waves. We did 56 hours of motoring while enjoying the stunning views and every detail of the (rarely cloudless) Southern Alps. It brought back memories of Wayne's mountaineering adventures up there when the ocean was rarely seen.
We arrived at Milford Sound this evening at 8.35pm. This place is absolutely amazing. We just kept saying look over there, wow look at that as we proceeded into the Fjord. The mountains around us soar up to and over 1000m from the shoreline and some are snow capped. There are also waterfalls cascading down the rock faces into the sound. We are straining our necks looking up all the time! It is an awe inspiring place. As we were coming along the sound we were experiencing 20kn winds with gusts lifting sheets of water off the surface. When the wind initially reached 15kn we said wow that is the most wind we've had on the trip down the coast.
We are now anchored in 29m of water at Harrison Bay which is a lovely, still anchorage half way along the sound. We have taken a shoreline from the stern of the boat to a tree on the shore so that we don't yaw around and end up on the sandbar which comes out of the Harrison River. If we look north from the boat we can see a snow capped peak rising above us and south from us is a sheer vertical rock face on the other side of the sound. As soon as we stopped to tie in, the sandflies started attacking. We have made covers for all the hatches and vents out of no-see-m mesh so we quickly had them all in place and Wayne had made an insect repellent of 50% detol and 50% baby oil.(Thanks Charles for this remedy.) It seems to be working. Now it's time for a hot shower, dinner and a long sleep.
Thanks to everyone for your comments on the blog, they come back to us through our ship's email system. Ben - We have a lot of ropes to pull from the cockpit now since installing all the new furling systems and they all work really well. We have yet to install the cables between the vane and pendulum. It's on the list, but there have just been so many jobs (and fun things too) that have taken precedence.
Happy Australia Day - Wayne n Kathy
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The three and a half day voyage down the coast was mostly calm as we were in the middle of a high pressure system or anti-cyclone. We now know why they call highs - anti-cyclones, because they are everything a cyclone isn't. No wind, cloud or waves. We did 56 hours of motoring while enjoying the stunning views and every detail of the (rarely cloudless) Southern Alps. It brought back memories of Wayne's mountaineering adventures up there when the ocean was rarely seen.
We arrived at Milford Sound this evening at 8.35pm. This place is absolutely amazing. We just kept saying look over there, wow look at that as we proceeded into the Fjord. The mountains around us soar up to and over 1000m from the shoreline and some are snow capped. There are also waterfalls cascading down the rock faces into the sound. We are straining our necks looking up all the time! It is an awe inspiring place. As we were coming along the sound we were experiencing 20kn winds with gusts lifting sheets of water off the surface. When the wind initially reached 15kn we said wow that is the most wind we've had on the trip down the coast.
We are now anchored in 29m of water at Harrison Bay which is a lovely, still anchorage half way along the sound. We have taken a shoreline from the stern of the boat to a tree on the shore so that we don't yaw around and end up on the sandbar which comes out of the Harrison River. If we look north from the boat we can see a snow capped peak rising above us and south from us is a sheer vertical rock face on the other side of the sound. As soon as we stopped to tie in, the sandflies started attacking. We have made covers for all the hatches and vents out of no-see-m mesh so we quickly had them all in place and Wayne had made an insect repellent of 50% detol and 50% baby oil.(Thanks Charles for this remedy.) It seems to be working. Now it's time for a hot shower, dinner and a long sleep.
Thanks to everyone for your comments on the blog, they come back to us through our ship's email system. Ben - We have a lot of ropes to pull from the cockpit now since installing all the new furling systems and they all work really well. We have yet to install the cables between the vane and pendulum. It's on the list, but there have just been so many jobs (and fun things too) that have taken precedence.
Happy Australia Day - Wayne n Kathy
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We made it to Milford Fjord
We got here Sunday evening and found out just how remote we are. We have written a post but the mountains have made it impossible to uplink via HF Radio so we have resorted to the only option we could find, an expensive brief email at the cruise boat terminal.
This is a stunning place. Mountains rise straight from the shore up to and over 1000m. Every direction you look is amazing. We went paddling yesterday and had a Fjordland penguin around the kayak and we watched as it climbed up the rocky shore beside us.
We'll just try and send it again. Fingers crossed.
All is well Wayne and Kathy
Regards
Wayne Tyrril
Saturday 24 January 2015
En route to Milford Sound
Date 23/1/2015 Time 1800 (Z) Position 41 20'S 170 44'E
Before leaving Abel Tasman NP we stretched our legs on Wednesday by rowing ashore in Torrent Bay and climbing Pit Head and walking out to Cleopatra's Pool. The cicadas were erratically buzzing everywhere particularly at our heads and necks! Ugh. Cleopatra's Pool was a lovely fresh water swimming hole where we enjoyed our lunch. There seemed to be more people standing around the swimming hole in their bathers then actually in the water. With the best of intentions of going for a swim the water temperature was not enticing. On the way there we saw some interesting pigeon like birds with a fancy top notch scratching on the the ground beside the trail surrounded by their tribe of about seven chicks scurrying after their parents. When we climbed Pit Head we were able to get phone and internet reception and Wayne downloaded a new grib file forecast for the west coast. A grib file shows the wind speed and direction every three hours for any number of days up to seven days. With the forecast looking good with variable wind up to 10 knots we decided to depart early Thursday morning.
We lifted the anchor and were underway at 7am. We planned to sail to the next bay called Bark Bay to collect fresh water to top our water tanks as we had discovered a watering point for boats here when we had been kayaking a few days previously. It consisted of a long hose coming out from a stream and the end of the hose marked by a floating buoy. The fresh water just flowed from the end of the hose. However the buoy was close to the rocks and the wind had been blowing on shore all night which had created choppy waters so we decided against anchoring and topping up our tanks.
We had a fast beam reach out of Tasman Bay and around Farewell Spit. Since then we have experienced the variable winds. We have been able to maintain an average speed of 5kn with calm seas and a southerly swell below one metre. We have had several sail combinations and also given the code zero and asymmetric spinnaker a turn. At times we have had to motor because of lack of wind. We are currently about 40nm off the coast from Westport. Because of our proximity to the coastline we have maintained a watch for other vessels throughout the night taking turns at doing three hours on, three hours off. There have been numerous fishing boats in sight as Westport is a fishing port. The stars last night were amazing as there were no city lights to interfere. The milky way stretched from the horizon on one side in an arch over Ambler to the horizon on the other side. There were so many different configurations and intensities. I hope we have more nights ahead like that as it makes you appreciate the size of our universe.
We expect to enter Milford Sound on Sunday. All is peaceful on board and a delicious aroma is coming from the galley from Captain Cook Wayno.
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Before leaving Abel Tasman NP we stretched our legs on Wednesday by rowing ashore in Torrent Bay and climbing Pit Head and walking out to Cleopatra's Pool. The cicadas were erratically buzzing everywhere particularly at our heads and necks! Ugh. Cleopatra's Pool was a lovely fresh water swimming hole where we enjoyed our lunch. There seemed to be more people standing around the swimming hole in their bathers then actually in the water. With the best of intentions of going for a swim the water temperature was not enticing. On the way there we saw some interesting pigeon like birds with a fancy top notch scratching on the the ground beside the trail surrounded by their tribe of about seven chicks scurrying after their parents. When we climbed Pit Head we were able to get phone and internet reception and Wayne downloaded a new grib file forecast for the west coast. A grib file shows the wind speed and direction every three hours for any number of days up to seven days. With the forecast looking good with variable wind up to 10 knots we decided to depart early Thursday morning.
We lifted the anchor and were underway at 7am. We planned to sail to the next bay called Bark Bay to collect fresh water to top our water tanks as we had discovered a watering point for boats here when we had been kayaking a few days previously. It consisted of a long hose coming out from a stream and the end of the hose marked by a floating buoy. The fresh water just flowed from the end of the hose. However the buoy was close to the rocks and the wind had been blowing on shore all night which had created choppy waters so we decided against anchoring and topping up our tanks.
We had a fast beam reach out of Tasman Bay and around Farewell Spit. Since then we have experienced the variable winds. We have been able to maintain an average speed of 5kn with calm seas and a southerly swell below one metre. We have had several sail combinations and also given the code zero and asymmetric spinnaker a turn. At times we have had to motor because of lack of wind. We are currently about 40nm off the coast from Westport. Because of our proximity to the coastline we have maintained a watch for other vessels throughout the night taking turns at doing three hours on, three hours off. There have been numerous fishing boats in sight as Westport is a fishing port. The stars last night were amazing as there were no city lights to interfere. The milky way stretched from the horizon on one side in an arch over Ambler to the horizon on the other side. There were so many different configurations and intensities. I hope we have more nights ahead like that as it makes you appreciate the size of our universe.
We expect to enter Milford Sound on Sunday. All is peaceful on board and a delicious aroma is coming from the galley from Captain Cook Wayno.
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Wednesday 21 January 2015
Abel Tasman National Park
Date 20/1/2015 Time Noon Position The Anchorage, Torrent Bay
We enjoyed the friendly, vibrant town of Nelson. It seemed a similar size to Launceston and the town centre was in easy walking distance from the port along walk and cycle paths which followed the Mattai River upstream. The river was beautiful with clean, clear water bubbling over river rocks. I didn't know a river in a township could remain so clean and untainted. We must have found all the 'boaty' type outlets and have stocked up on boaty bits for future jobs. Food and most other things appear to be more expensive here then in Australia. I'm glad I bought several months supply of food before we left Tassie so now we only need to stock up on fresh meat and vegetables. We went to the farmer's market which was great value and explored the art and craft market on Saturday. At the end of our stay we rode along the coast to Richmond and enjoyed a much deserved ice cream before returning via the old rail line route to enjoy fush and chups in the park.
Before leaving Nelson we looked into where we could obtain diesel to top up our tank. At the port there were two refueling stations which when investigated only sold fuel to account holders which left us in the lurch. So we did several dinghy and walking trips back and forth to the nearest service station. All part of the experience.
On Sunday we had a pleasant 16nm sail north to Abel Tasman National Park. We saw a group of about five penguins resting on the surface and lots of jellyfish with dark coloured rings. The water was a beautiful emerald green colour. We initially dropped the anchor in behind an island called Adele Island and had our chicken curry which I had prepared on the way over. It was a gorgeous spot with thickly forested hills rising from the water and little beaches with a few batches (NZ shacks) scattered along the shore. The sound of the cicadas was almost deafening, it reminded us of Sydney in summer. A gannet kept circling around and diving like a torpedo into the water to catch its fish. It was all very nice until a southerly started blowing making the anchorage very rolly, so we left and sailed around the next headland to Torrent Bay to an all weather anchorage which is where we currently are.
Yesterday we kayaked north along the coast exploring all the little rivers as we went. Apparently the rocky shorelines along Abel Tasman NP are breeding grounds for seals but unfortunately we are a few weeks late to see the seal pups but we were lucky enough to see several seals on an out lying island. They must be use to kayakers because they weren't fazed by our proximity. Wayne got in really close to the rocks and a seal came all the way down to have a good look at him. Then it dived straight under his kayak and just lolled around us for awhile. From his kayak Wayne prized some mussels of a rock which was exposed as the tide was dropping and we enjoyed them later in a delicious sauce.
It is a beautiful area but we are not alone! There are lots of water taxis whizzing people around particularly walkers doing the 3-5 day walk along the coast. There are also lots of people who have hired kayaks and are paddling along the coast rather then walking it. Last night we were surrounded by at least thirty racing yachts that I believe were all part of a race from Nelson. Thankfully they all left this morning and it is peaceful once again with just the buzz of the cicadas.
We plan to spend the rest of the week along the coast here exploring with our kayaks and when we get a good weather window which at this stage looks to be Saturday we will head out and down the west coast (about a 3 day sail) to Milford Sound.
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We enjoyed the friendly, vibrant town of Nelson. It seemed a similar size to Launceston and the town centre was in easy walking distance from the port along walk and cycle paths which followed the Mattai River upstream. The river was beautiful with clean, clear water bubbling over river rocks. I didn't know a river in a township could remain so clean and untainted. We must have found all the 'boaty' type outlets and have stocked up on boaty bits for future jobs. Food and most other things appear to be more expensive here then in Australia. I'm glad I bought several months supply of food before we left Tassie so now we only need to stock up on fresh meat and vegetables. We went to the farmer's market which was great value and explored the art and craft market on Saturday. At the end of our stay we rode along the coast to Richmond and enjoyed a much deserved ice cream before returning via the old rail line route to enjoy fush and chups in the park.
Before leaving Nelson we looked into where we could obtain diesel to top up our tank. At the port there were two refueling stations which when investigated only sold fuel to account holders which left us in the lurch. So we did several dinghy and walking trips back and forth to the nearest service station. All part of the experience.
On Sunday we had a pleasant 16nm sail north to Abel Tasman National Park. We saw a group of about five penguins resting on the surface and lots of jellyfish with dark coloured rings. The water was a beautiful emerald green colour. We initially dropped the anchor in behind an island called Adele Island and had our chicken curry which I had prepared on the way over. It was a gorgeous spot with thickly forested hills rising from the water and little beaches with a few batches (NZ shacks) scattered along the shore. The sound of the cicadas was almost deafening, it reminded us of Sydney in summer. A gannet kept circling around and diving like a torpedo into the water to catch its fish. It was all very nice until a southerly started blowing making the anchorage very rolly, so we left and sailed around the next headland to Torrent Bay to an all weather anchorage which is where we currently are.
Yesterday we kayaked north along the coast exploring all the little rivers as we went. Apparently the rocky shorelines along Abel Tasman NP are breeding grounds for seals but unfortunately we are a few weeks late to see the seal pups but we were lucky enough to see several seals on an out lying island. They must be use to kayakers because they weren't fazed by our proximity. Wayne got in really close to the rocks and a seal came all the way down to have a good look at him. Then it dived straight under his kayak and just lolled around us for awhile. From his kayak Wayne prized some mussels of a rock which was exposed as the tide was dropping and we enjoyed them later in a delicious sauce.
It is a beautiful area but we are not alone! There are lots of water taxis whizzing people around particularly walkers doing the 3-5 day walk along the coast. There are also lots of people who have hired kayaks and are paddling along the coast rather then walking it. Last night we were surrounded by at least thirty racing yachts that I believe were all part of a race from Nelson. Thankfully they all left this morning and it is peaceful once again with just the buzz of the cicadas.
We plan to spend the rest of the week along the coast here exploring with our kayaks and when we get a good weather window which at this stage looks to be Saturday we will head out and down the west coast (about a 3 day sail) to Milford Sound.
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Monday 12 January 2015
Photos
Our first sight of land after 9 days at sea.
Wayne was very excited about how well the Asymmetric Spinnaker worked.
Ambler at anchor in Port Nelson.
Bringing the bikes ashore in the dinghy.
Riding the old horse and cart tramway on the Dun Mountain Trail, Nelson.
Riding the old horse and cart tramway on the Dun Mountain Trail, Nelson.
Sunday 11 January 2015
Arrival and Dun Mt Trail
Date: 11 Jan 2015 Time: 2100 Position: Anchored in Nelson Harbour
Well the last night of our Trans Tasman was spent coaxing the boat along between Farewell Spit and Nelson in Tasman Bay with a fading breeze. We had booked customs and quarantine for 0800 Saturday 10th so we now had a deadline to meet which meant motoring when the boat speed fell below 4 knots. We did 3 hour watches on this stretch and when I came up at 3am we had the motor on and the mainsail up. Soon after, a new breeze came up from the SW so I unfurled the headsail and turned the motor off to enjoy the last leg of sailing in totally flat water 45 degrees off the breeze. We got cranking along at 7 knots in the 10 knots true wind speed, Awesome!
The sunrise was brilliant with fingers of cloud flowing over the hills to the east while the range to the west was lit up with a deep golden light as the sun rose.
A call to Nelson harbour radio at 7am confirmed our appointment to clear in to New Zealand. We tied up to a tug as directed, managing to avoid rubber scrapes along the boat. The Customs and Quarantine officers were efficient, helpful and friendly and even had some recommendations for the local mountain bike trails such as the Coppermine track otherwise known as the Dun Mountain Trail.
The voyage statistics were as follows, total Nautical Miles sailed 1,302 and sailing time 9 days and 21 hours. We actually had to motor for 32 hours over the last 2 days due to a lack of wind. I would normally float around and wait for a breeze to fill in but we were so close to our destination we decided to burn fuel.
Nelson is a lovely, small vibrant town similar to Launceston. We spent Saturday afternoon walking around the town centre and getting our land legs back.
Today we tackled the Dun Mountain circuit on our mountain bikes which was fantastic. We climbed 1000 metres along an old horse drawn railway line that took us from the outskirts of Nelson through stunning forests climbing steadily up to an old copper and chrome ore mining area on a ridge at the foot of Dun Mountain. It was a hot dry day and the crystal clear streams along the way kept us refreshed. The vistas were stunning back across the steep valleys and hills to the sea. The bird song was delightful to listen to. The real fun began on the descent from the saddle on a purpose built mountain bike track with great switch backs on compacted gravel and rock, a lot of loose rock kept our attention and focus to stay on the trail especially as the drop off to the side was very steep most of the time. We zoomed down through the Mattai Valley beside a clear mountain stream back into Nelson and a well deserved huge double scoop New Zealand ice cream.
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Well the last night of our Trans Tasman was spent coaxing the boat along between Farewell Spit and Nelson in Tasman Bay with a fading breeze. We had booked customs and quarantine for 0800 Saturday 10th so we now had a deadline to meet which meant motoring when the boat speed fell below 4 knots. We did 3 hour watches on this stretch and when I came up at 3am we had the motor on and the mainsail up. Soon after, a new breeze came up from the SW so I unfurled the headsail and turned the motor off to enjoy the last leg of sailing in totally flat water 45 degrees off the breeze. We got cranking along at 7 knots in the 10 knots true wind speed, Awesome!
The sunrise was brilliant with fingers of cloud flowing over the hills to the east while the range to the west was lit up with a deep golden light as the sun rose.
A call to Nelson harbour radio at 7am confirmed our appointment to clear in to New Zealand. We tied up to a tug as directed, managing to avoid rubber scrapes along the boat. The Customs and Quarantine officers were efficient, helpful and friendly and even had some recommendations for the local mountain bike trails such as the Coppermine track otherwise known as the Dun Mountain Trail.
The voyage statistics were as follows, total Nautical Miles sailed 1,302 and sailing time 9 days and 21 hours. We actually had to motor for 32 hours over the last 2 days due to a lack of wind. I would normally float around and wait for a breeze to fill in but we were so close to our destination we decided to burn fuel.
Nelson is a lovely, small vibrant town similar to Launceston. We spent Saturday afternoon walking around the town centre and getting our land legs back.
Today we tackled the Dun Mountain circuit on our mountain bikes which was fantastic. We climbed 1000 metres along an old horse drawn railway line that took us from the outskirts of Nelson through stunning forests climbing steadily up to an old copper and chrome ore mining area on a ridge at the foot of Dun Mountain. It was a hot dry day and the crystal clear streams along the way kept us refreshed. The vistas were stunning back across the steep valleys and hills to the sea. The bird song was delightful to listen to. The real fun began on the descent from the saddle on a purpose built mountain bike track with great switch backs on compacted gravel and rock, a lot of loose rock kept our attention and focus to stay on the trail especially as the drop off to the side was very steep most of the time. We zoomed down through the Mattai Valley beside a clear mountain stream back into Nelson and a well deserved huge double scoop New Zealand ice cream.
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Friday 9 January 2015
Land Ho!
Date 9 jan 2015 Time 2100 Position abeam Farewell Spit(named by Cook prior to discovering the East Coast of Aus)
This morning we awoke to a calm, slick sea and a dark smudge on the horizon which was New Zealand! At the time we would have been 30-40 nautical miles away from the land that we could see. So it's cherries for me! While we motored until lunch time we were able to enjoy the warmth of the sun and catch up on a few jobs. Then a ruffle was seen on the water so Wayne brought out the Amazing Asymmetric Spinnaker and what a ripper! It pulled us through the water at 4 knots with a westerly breeze of about 5 knots from behind us. We carried this sail for about 4 hours until the wind reached 15 knots then it was time to furl it away and roll out the headsail as we heard on the marine VHF radio that it was blowing 20 knots at Farewell Spit ahead of us. Wayne was in his element like a kid at Christmas.
Another sign to tell us we weren't far from land was the sight of Gannets and Terns flying high above the water. The more wider ranging, ocean going birds fly very low almost touching the water with their wing tips. The scenery of the coastline has been awe inspiring. The mountain ranges are huge and rugged which drop away to dramatic cliff lines with hollowed arches and pinnacles. Then there are some lush green valleys that taper gently down to the shore. It's just stunning. We can't wait to get out and explore this beautiful wilderness. Whilst writing this blog we have just gybed around Farewell Spit which is the most North Westerly point of the South Island with a westerly 18 knot wind behind us. It's wonderful as we can see yet another mountain range exposing itself behind the first while the sun sets. We estimate that we will be arriving in Nelson tomorrow morning to clear customs and drop the anchor. Then we'll have to get these wobbly sea legs tramping up those mountains and pedaling our bikes. All is brilliant on board.
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This morning we awoke to a calm, slick sea and a dark smudge on the horizon which was New Zealand! At the time we would have been 30-40 nautical miles away from the land that we could see. So it's cherries for me! While we motored until lunch time we were able to enjoy the warmth of the sun and catch up on a few jobs. Then a ruffle was seen on the water so Wayne brought out the Amazing Asymmetric Spinnaker and what a ripper! It pulled us through the water at 4 knots with a westerly breeze of about 5 knots from behind us. We carried this sail for about 4 hours until the wind reached 15 knots then it was time to furl it away and roll out the headsail as we heard on the marine VHF radio that it was blowing 20 knots at Farewell Spit ahead of us. Wayne was in his element like a kid at Christmas.
Another sign to tell us we weren't far from land was the sight of Gannets and Terns flying high above the water. The more wider ranging, ocean going birds fly very low almost touching the water with their wing tips. The scenery of the coastline has been awe inspiring. The mountain ranges are huge and rugged which drop away to dramatic cliff lines with hollowed arches and pinnacles. Then there are some lush green valleys that taper gently down to the shore. It's just stunning. We can't wait to get out and explore this beautiful wilderness. Whilst writing this blog we have just gybed around Farewell Spit which is the most North Westerly point of the South Island with a westerly 18 knot wind behind us. It's wonderful as we can see yet another mountain range exposing itself behind the first while the sun sets. We estimate that we will be arriving in Nelson tomorrow morning to clear customs and drop the anchor. Then we'll have to get these wobbly sea legs tramping up those mountains and pedaling our bikes. All is brilliant on board.
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Thursday 8 January 2015
Becalmed
Date 8 Jan 2015 Time 2100 NZDST Position 40 37'S 170 46'E Dist to Nelson 150nm Wind South less than 5kn
We're on the slow boat to Nelson. I think the maximum wind speed all day has been 5 knots but mainly around 2 knots which has meant we've been motoring most of the day. However we did set up the Code O sail which is meant for very light conditions and it was nice and peaceful for a while but because we have the sea kayaks on the outside of the rail at the stern one of us needed to baby sit the sail as the sheet would keep getting caught on the kayak. But the wind was very fluky anyway and the sail didn't always fill. The topside of not much wind meant we could have a shower. It felt wonderful. We were also able to open the ports and hatches and let some fresh air blow through the cabin. We have had some highlights in the wildlife department today with a pod of about 30 dolphins swimming alongside the boat for quite a while. As the water is so clear we could distinctly see all the markings, colours and scratches on their bodies as they swept around the boat. They were awesome to watch. The bird life is also increasing. We had a juvenile wandering albatross do a few loops of the boat to check us out. Most of the albatrosses we have seen have been the shy albatross. So the sight of land is still beyond the horizon at present. Perhaps tomorrow sometime but I believe the wind forecast for tomorrow is similar to what we've experienced today. All is clean and fresh on board Ambler.
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We're on the slow boat to Nelson. I think the maximum wind speed all day has been 5 knots but mainly around 2 knots which has meant we've been motoring most of the day. However we did set up the Code O sail which is meant for very light conditions and it was nice and peaceful for a while but because we have the sea kayaks on the outside of the rail at the stern one of us needed to baby sit the sail as the sheet would keep getting caught on the kayak. But the wind was very fluky anyway and the sail didn't always fill. The topside of not much wind meant we could have a shower. It felt wonderful. We were also able to open the ports and hatches and let some fresh air blow through the cabin. We have had some highlights in the wildlife department today with a pod of about 30 dolphins swimming alongside the boat for quite a while. As the water is so clear we could distinctly see all the markings, colours and scratches on their bodies as they swept around the boat. They were awesome to watch. The bird life is also increasing. We had a juvenile wandering albatross do a few loops of the boat to check us out. Most of the albatrosses we have seen have been the shy albatross. So the sight of land is still beyond the horizon at present. Perhaps tomorrow sometime but I believe the wind forecast for tomorrow is similar to what we've experienced today. All is clean and fresh on board Ambler.
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Wednesday 7 January 2015
Southerly Rhythm
Date 8-01-15 Time 2100 Position 40 48'S, 168 18'E 264 to Nelson ETA Friday Afternoon
Well there was no need for the lightweight sails as the wind changed to a 20 knot southerly this morning and has continued blowing consistently all day. As a friend once said a low pressure system is predictable but a high pressure system which we are experiencing now is often unpredictable. Wayne has his own idea about why we are experiencing this wind which is that the high over us is being squeezed against the west coast mountain range on the south island forcing the wind northwards. Because we are not far off the coast we are caught in this 'southerly squeeze'. So it's been a fast ride today and our destination - Nelson is getting ever closer, maybe only 2 or 3 days away? We hope to be able to sight land late tomorrow after 8 days of blue water. Who ever sees land first wins ...for Wayne it's an ice cream and if it's me it'll be cherries, strawberries or a mango. All is fine and dandy on board this little ship rocking rhythmically in the southerly swell.
Wayne n Kathy
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Well there was no need for the lightweight sails as the wind changed to a 20 knot southerly this morning and has continued blowing consistently all day. As a friend once said a low pressure system is predictable but a high pressure system which we are experiencing now is often unpredictable. Wayne has his own idea about why we are experiencing this wind which is that the high over us is being squeezed against the west coast mountain range on the south island forcing the wind northwards. Because we are not far off the coast we are caught in this 'southerly squeeze'. So it's been a fast ride today and our destination - Nelson is getting ever closer, maybe only 2 or 3 days away? We hope to be able to sight land late tomorrow after 8 days of blue water. Who ever sees land first wins ...for Wayne it's an ice cream and if it's me it'll be cherries, strawberries or a mango. All is fine and dandy on board this little ship rocking rhythmically in the southerly swell.
Wayne n Kathy
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Monday 5 January 2015
A Refreshing Midnight Shower on the Foredeck
Day 6 5/1/2015 1800 Posn 41 05'S, 161 56'E 554nm to Nelson
It's been a calmer, overcast day with a SE breeze of about 15 knots which makes for much smoother sailing and comfortable conditions on board. Therefore Wayne cooked a delicious dinner of lemon chicken and stir fried vegies. But last night was a different story, at midnight the wind changed from a northerly to a brisk southerly, so we quickly got into our wet weather gear and went out to reset the sails for the new breeze. In the abruptness of the 25 knot wind change coming through we had a backed headsail due to the wind turning 180 degrees suddenly. So we eased the headsail sheet and then decided to furl the sail completely. After about 5 turns the spinnaker halyard got tangled within the furling sail at the mast head. Meanwhile the 2 slack and flogging headsail sheets decided to tangle into a huge knot like a writhing snake pit. It took us 20 minutes to sort out the tangle of sheets and sails in the pouring rain. Fortunately no damage was done other than a dent in pride. Mast head tangles happen to the best of us at the worst of times.
All is hunky dory on board Ambler.
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It's been a calmer, overcast day with a SE breeze of about 15 knots which makes for much smoother sailing and comfortable conditions on board. Therefore Wayne cooked a delicious dinner of lemon chicken and stir fried vegies. But last night was a different story, at midnight the wind changed from a northerly to a brisk southerly, so we quickly got into our wet weather gear and went out to reset the sails for the new breeze. In the abruptness of the 25 knot wind change coming through we had a backed headsail due to the wind turning 180 degrees suddenly. So we eased the headsail sheet and then decided to furl the sail completely. After about 5 turns the spinnaker halyard got tangled within the furling sail at the mast head. Meanwhile the 2 slack and flogging headsail sheets decided to tangle into a huge knot like a writhing snake pit. It took us 20 minutes to sort out the tangle of sheets and sails in the pouring rain. Fortunately no damage was done other than a dent in pride. Mast head tangles happen to the best of us at the worst of times.
All is hunky dory on board Ambler.
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Sunday 4 January 2015
Communications Issues Fixed
4 Jan 2015 1800 local Posn 41 29'S 159 19'E 672nm to Nelson
I resolved a wiring issue that filled the HF Radio with static and hence was unable to connect to get our emails off. We are continuing to the East with a 20-25 knot Northerly wind and developed swell which occasionally folds over the boat drenching the deck and cockpit. Feels like a submarine at times but the boat pops up, gives herself a good shake ready for the next one. Life is getting a bit salty below. We are looking forward already to a nice warm shower in Nelson. We enjoyed a baked dinner tonight and feel like a good walk but that will have to wait.
All is well on Ambler
Wayne n Kathy
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I resolved a wiring issue that filled the HF Radio with static and hence was unable to connect to get our emails off. We are continuing to the East with a 20-25 knot Northerly wind and developed swell which occasionally folds over the boat drenching the deck and cockpit. Feels like a submarine at times but the boat pops up, gives herself a good shake ready for the next one. Life is getting a bit salty below. We are looking forward already to a nice warm shower in Nelson. We enjoyed a baked dinner tonight and feel like a good walk but that will have to wait.
All is well on Ambler
Wayne n Kathy
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Moovin' and Groovin' with the wind and waves
3/1/2015 position at 1800 41 29'S 155 59'E
822nm to Nelson
It's been another nice day heading East with a 20 knot northerly on our beam. The sky has been overcast and grey which makes the sea look an even darker grey than usual. The sea and sky are like daily mirror images of each other. As yet we haven't seen any mammals to speak of except each other. The occasional albatross swoops slowly and elegantly near us and what we think are storm petrels flit about the tops of the waves seeming to collect microscopic food which is invisible to our human eye. Last night when Wayne went out to check the sails his torchlight lit up some prawns that were around the boat. They were clear with huge eyes. Today was spent like the previous few...horizontal-reading books, listening to music, talking and napping. Such a contrast to the hectic weeks leading up to our departure. Wayne decided it was time for a big 'cook up' today. So he made a delicious stew of meat and vegies.
All is well onboard spaceship Ambler
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822nm to Nelson
It's been another nice day heading East with a 20 knot northerly on our beam. The sky has been overcast and grey which makes the sea look an even darker grey than usual. The sea and sky are like daily mirror images of each other. As yet we haven't seen any mammals to speak of except each other. The occasional albatross swoops slowly and elegantly near us and what we think are storm petrels flit about the tops of the waves seeming to collect microscopic food which is invisible to our human eye. Last night when Wayne went out to check the sails his torchlight lit up some prawns that were around the boat. They were clear with huge eyes. Today was spent like the previous few...horizontal-reading books, listening to music, talking and napping. Such a contrast to the hectic weeks leading up to our departure. Wayne decided it was time for a big 'cook up' today. So he made a delicious stew of meat and vegies.
All is well onboard spaceship Ambler
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Friday 2 January 2015
Going to Windward
Time 1800
Position 41 08'S, 153 02'E
We have 948 to Nelson
Wind 15 to 20 knots from the NE.
We have been working into the new breeze since it appeared about 2200 last night from the SE. it backed to the NE around 3am allowing us to tack onto a course of just south of East and has been steady ever since.
We may see it swing to the North about midnight according to the wind predictions which should ease the conditions onboard. The conditions being a bit bumpy at the moment. Not much else to report and all is well onboard.
Thanks all for the well wishes received.
Regards, Wayne and Kathy
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Position 41 08'S, 153 02'E
We have 948 to Nelson
Wind 15 to 20 knots from the NE.
We have been working into the new breeze since it appeared about 2200 last night from the SE. it backed to the NE around 3am allowing us to tack onto a course of just south of East and has been steady ever since.
We may see it swing to the North about midnight according to the wind predictions which should ease the conditions onboard. The conditions being a bit bumpy at the moment. Not much else to report and all is well onboard.
Thanks all for the well wishes received.
Regards, Wayne and Kathy
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Thursday 1 January 2015
Day 2 and the US Coast Guard demands sea room
Time 1800 local
Position 40 35'S, 150 34'E we are averaging 6 knots.
Distance to Nelson 1062nm
Well we have been catching up on sleep, reading and generally settling into the motion of the ocean.
We had a good run across the top yesterday, in fact we got to Waterhouse Island 3 hours too soon to pass through Banks Strait with the tide, so we turned south and hove too off Tomahawk for a few hours. Heaving too is stopping the boat without having to anchor and drop the sails.
The conditions were rather rough since 1500 with current against tide. It is best to traverse Banks Strait with both current and tide with you and this we achieved around midnight passing into the Tasman Sea.
Today has been cloudy and rain showers most of the day and a few Storm Petrels dancing on the waves. Not many shearwaters and only 1 Albatross.
At 1200 today got a call on the VHF from the vessel Polar Star a US Coast Guard Cutter requesting us to alter coarse Northward to achieve a 5 mile separation as they felt the need to shoot at something or other shortly. Seems the Tasman Sea isn't big enough. This we did. They turned their AIS back on once we passed which made me wonder why they felt the need to sneak around shooting at things in our waters anyway.
All is well on board
Wayne n Kathy
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Position 40 35'S, 150 34'E we are averaging 6 knots.
Distance to Nelson 1062nm
Well we have been catching up on sleep, reading and generally settling into the motion of the ocean.
We had a good run across the top yesterday, in fact we got to Waterhouse Island 3 hours too soon to pass through Banks Strait with the tide, so we turned south and hove too off Tomahawk for a few hours. Heaving too is stopping the boat without having to anchor and drop the sails.
The conditions were rather rough since 1500 with current against tide. It is best to traverse Banks Strait with both current and tide with you and this we achieved around midnight passing into the Tasman Sea.
Today has been cloudy and rain showers most of the day and a few Storm Petrels dancing on the waves. Not many shearwaters and only 1 Albatross.
At 1200 today got a call on the VHF from the vessel Polar Star a US Coast Guard Cutter requesting us to alter coarse Northward to achieve a 5 mile separation as they felt the need to shoot at something or other shortly. Seems the Tasman Sea isn't big enough. This we did. They turned their AIS back on once we passed which made me wonder why they felt the need to sneak around shooting at things in our waters anyway.
All is well on board
Wayne n Kathy
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