Reefton South Island NZ

Well Reefton sounds like a place to be avoided by a cruising yacht, especially as it is inland on the edge of a mountain range.

We decided after sailing around New Zealand that we missed something, the bit in the middle!

We looked at the puddle to the East and saw that we would spend at least 6 weeks, or likely more sailing to Chile and at least 6 weeks from there back to the Pacific islands. Our planned departure in November also didn't look good weather wise owing to the effects of the El Nino. So an alternative cunning plan was hatched.

We found a sturdy (4 ton) mooring to rent at Russell in the Bay of Islands and bought a Toyota Hiace. We spent a day fitting a bunk in the back and fitted the boat fridge and a second battery system.

Our new goal has been to drive between all the mountain bike trails in New Zealand. We have spent just over 70 days touring the North Island including some 60 days on the bikes. We have discovered so many awesome tracks that have been opened to attract tourists from around the world. The riding has been amazing and the scenery even more so.

The riding highlights have included a week at Rotorua, the Pakahi track, Te Waiti trail, the Timber Trail, the 42 Traverse, the Bridge to Nowhere track and some great rides near Wellington such as the Skyline Traverse and the Old Coast Road and many more.

The local enthusiasm to build tracks and restore many old historical pioneer routes to a standard for mountain bike riding as well as walking is incredible. We have found New Zealanders to be keen outdoor people with a great spirit of adventure.

A very special Christmas day was spent with two new and enthusiastic outdoor friends Beth and Boyd, climbing to the summit of snow covered Mount Ruapehu to look down into its cauldron lake. We left the bikes in the van for that one. It was a memorable adventure as we all took turns in front to plug steps into the steep snow slopes to gain altitude.

We are as the title says at Reefton in the South Island having a day off. We have ridden many amazing tracks since the ferry trip across Cook Strait on the 12th January. The highlights being the Rameka track and Canaan loop, the Kill Devil track, the Maungatapu track, the Wakamarina track, Cullen creek track and the Charming Creek walkway.

Yesterday we completed our second day of the Old Ghost Road which had been opened as a through ride on the 15th December. It has already been deservedly ranked one of the top 5 tracks in the world. Its popularity is rapidly growing so look it up and put it on the short term bucket list if you are a keen MTBr. We don't have the words to describe it. It was just outstanding single track for 85km. Google it!

We have until the end of March to explore more tracks on the South Island. Then we will head back to the boat to begin preparations to get under way on Ambler again.

We have GPS tracked all our rides so we have gpx files for anyone who would like to plan a trip to New Zealand with their bikes. We will also have a van for sale that fits 2 bikes (wheels off) down the side of the double bed.

All is well, strong and fighting fit,
Wayne and Kathy

PS Get well soon Steve.

Photos of Whangaroa Harbour Voyage

 Sailing wing and wing across the Bay of Islands

Sailing across the Bay of Islands 

Cape Wiwiki 

Beam reaching towards the Cavalli Islands 

Our anchorage in Mahinepua Bay 

Another yacht, early morning leaving the anchorage 

Tunnels outside the entrance to Whangaroa Harbour

Tunnels outside the entrance to Whangaroa Harbour 

Tunnels outside the entrance to Whangaroa Harbour 

Tunnels outside the entrance to Whangaroa Harbour 

North of Whangaroa Harbour 

Tauranga Bay (South of  Whangaroa Harbour) 

 Tauranga Bay (South of  Whangaroa Harbour) 

Looking across to Stephenson Island, Tauranga Bay (South of  Whangaroa Harbour)  

Conglomerate rock on the beach at Tauranga Bay 

Overlooking part of Whangaroa harbour from a rocky knoll above our anchorage  

Crossing the bay to climb Duke's Nose 

Views of Whangaroa Harbour entrance from the top of Duke's Nose 

An interesting dog on the cliff face

A bach in Rere Bay 

A pair of Californian Quails 

Ambler from the top of St Paul's  

A Bullers Shearwater

Back in Russell

Date: 26/10/15 Position: Matauwhi Bay, Russell, Bay of Islands

On Wednesday morning we woke to a calm and still anchorage. We weighed anchor mid morning and drifted with just the headsail open out of Pekapeka Bay. As we rounded Takahi Point we spotted two small seals basking on the rocks and were also met by a strong headwind. So we furled the headsail and turned the engine on to motor the short distance up Whangaroa Harbour to anchor off the locality of Whangaroa. We went ashore and followed a walking track that took us up to a large bald cone called St Paul's Rock. The 360 degree views were worthy of the climb. After returning to Ambler we headed across to Totara North to drop anchor for the night and shelter from the north westerly. We had a walk ashore at Totara North and saw the remains of the last kauri sawmill and shipyards that closed ten years ago but had been in operation for over a century. That evening Wayne helped the guys on 'Brenda' with an engine issue and we enjoyed some lovely smoked fish with them for dinner.

Thursday morning was windy and we spent the morning aboard getting a few jobs done. In the afternoon we sailed down the harbour to Pararaka Bay which is on the southern side of the harbour. Here we picked up a mooring and collected water from a water point that had a hose installed which was connected to a reservoir ashore. After filling our tanks we motored into a headwind and crossed the harbour and entered Waihi Bay. It was a stunning small bay surrounded by high rock walls. However it was too much of a wind funnel to consider dropping the anchor. So we continued down the harbour, spotting the seals still lounging on the same rocks and entered Waitepipi Bay. It was very protected and we dropped anchor for the night near two other yachts and a motor launch. The smaller of the two yachts had stunning varnished timber top sides.

On Friday morning we rose early with the sun. After breakfast we hoisted the main sail, weighed anchor and partially unfurled the headsail to allow the breeze to push the bow downwind. Then we unfurled the full headsail and poled it out to allow the 5 knots of breeze to take us towards the harbour entrance. We lowered the pole to go through the narrow entrance with the outgoing tide and virtually no wind. Once outside the harbour entrance we had a 10 knot north westerly so we beam reached across Whangaroa bay towards Flat Island. At 9am on the dot the 'zzzzinngg' of the fishing line caught our full attention. Ambler had caught a fish on her trolling lure. Wayne wound the line in while I dived below to find the net. We were sailing along at 5 knots at the time and the fish stripped all the line off the reel and Wayne was left looking at the knot, hoping that it would hold. Thank goodness he's good at tying knots. We towed the fish until it tired itself out and once we had it in the cockpit we were very excited to see it was a kingfish just less than a metre long. After all this excitement we had almost reached our turning point to pass east of the Cavalli Islands. Not far from our position at the time lay the wreck of the 'Rainbow Warrior' which had been sunk near the smaller northern islands of the Cavalli group. It was the second time it had been sunk after the French government sunk it while it was alongside in Auckland Harbour. Now it provides an artificial reef and a scuba diving location. A large number of Buller Shearwaters glided past us and we even had an albatross soar by. We haven't seen an albatross since East Cape. When we altered our course to pass east of the Cavalli Islands and on to Cape Wiwiki we poled out the headsail again and ran wing and wing before the north westerly 15-18 knots. After rounding Cape Wiwiki and entering the Bay of Islands the wind increased by another 5 knots. We took the pole down and broad reached across the bay. It wasn't long before we had to put a reef in the mainsail because Ambler was travelling at her hull speed of 7.5 knots. We dropped all the sails just off the tightly packed mooring area in Russell at 1430 and proceeded to our mooring under engine. It had been a fast and enjoyable sail.

The last three days we have spent here on the mooring in Matauwhi Bay, Russell. On Saturday it was very windy and rained heavily and we did some jobs and relaxed on board. On Sunday the sun came out and we spent the day walking the Full Circle Walkway. This involved catching the ferry from Russell to Paihia and then walking from Paihia to Opua on beaches and bush tracks across the headlands. From Opua we caught another ferry to Okiato. From Okiato we followed mainly bush tracks and some boardwalk sections through mangrove swamps back to Russell. This last section was the nicest with lush forest, towering trees and man ferns. Today we've been doing jobs again and dug our bikes out of the forepeak ready to put together and use.

All is relaxed on board. Kathy and Wayne

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Rere Bay, Whangaroa Harbour, North Island, New Zealand

Date: 20/10/15 Position: Rere Bay, Whangaroa Harbour, North Island, New Zealand

On Saturday morning we slept in as it was so still and quiet in Waitepipi Bay. After breakfast we rowed the dinghy over to the south west corner of the bay searching for signs of a walking track that we had read started from this corner of the bay. When we were rowing along the shore we spotted a large orange triangle nailed to an overhanging tree. Thinking that this triangle marked the start of the track we tied the dinghy up to a tree on the narrow beach. There were no signs of a track but we bush bashed our way up anyway towards a rocky outcrop we wanted to summit. As we ascended we both thought of our 'bulldozers of the bush' (wombats) back home that make lovely pads to follow. Once we had climbed to the base of the rocky outcrop we noticed a few red tapes marking a route along the base of the cliff line. As we followed this route we realised it was obviously a route marking the layout of a variety of possum, stoat, ferret and rat traps. All the traps we saw were empty and we continued to follow the route to see where it led. The route took us up to a high ridge line partially clear of scrub and the views looking back towards Whangaroa Harbour were magnificent. Returning along the same route we decided to follow it in the other direction which led us out onto a grassy knoll overlooking our anchorage in Waitepipi Bay and the next bay, Rere Bay. We were able to look down and see the stark white wings of the gannets soaring below us against the dark green water.

On Sunday I spent the morning giving Ambler a spring clean and general tidy up and Wayne serviced the headsail and staysail sheet blocks. After lunch we put the outboard on the dinghy and went around into the southern arm of Pekapeka Bay to Rere Bay. We went ashore at Lane Cove Hut which is a walkers hut that can accommodate 16 people and is maintained by DOC. From the hut we followed a walking track up onto Duke's Nose, a large rock outcrop with an overhang that from a distance resembles a nose. The views like the day before were very impressive. The deep blues of Whangaroa Harbour stretched out under us and out to sea. Ambler looked like a small white blemish in the anchorage surrounded by the dark green bush covered hills. On our way back to Ambler we went over to say hello to a Nordic 40ft yacht called 'Brenda' which had Sydney registration. On board was the owner Rick and his friend Tony. Rick had bought the boat in Opua and they were preparing 'Brenda' to sail back to Australia. We enjoyed a delicious dinner that evening with Rick and Tony.

Monday was a blustery day so we spent it on board and Wayne helped Rick and Tony problem shoot some issues on their boat. They came over for dinner on Ambler that night.

Today we went kayaking early before the wind picked up. We kayaked upstream with a rising tide as far as we could go along an estuary called Wairakau Stream. Once we reached the mangrove area we saw many kingfishers flying from low branch to low branch. They all seemed very territorial as they chased each other around nosily or perhaps it was just spring in the air. As the stream began to get narrower and shallower we could clearly see decent sized schools of fish below us. They looked like mullet. After leaving the estuary we kayaked around the head of Rere Bay and checked out the unoccupied dozen or so baches (the NZ term for a holiday home) each with their own jetty. The last section we kayaked was very interesting as we paddled along the base of a cliff line that had became an overhang at water level due to erosion. There were several large caravan sized boulders scattered along the shoreline, sitting alone about 20m from the shore. Also due to erosion they were starting to take on the shape of large mushrooms. In a little secluded cove, opposite the harbour entrance we came across the remains of an old wharf and a concrete block like structure ashore. After looking inside the structure it appeared to resemble a bomb shelter due to the concrete walls being about half a metre thick. It was a relic of a different age. We continued on and as we poked our kayaks around the last headland of the bay to see what the main harbour looked like we were greeted by a strong wind. The harbour was full of white caps so we decided to head back to Ambler.

All is well on board. Kathy and Wayne

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Waitepipi Bay, Wangaroa Harbour, North Island, New Zealand

Date: 16/10/15 Position: Waitepipi Bay, Wangaroa Harbour, North Island, New Zealand

At 08:30 Thursday morning we raised the mainsail, dropped the mooring line and motored our way clear of the other boats hanging on their moorings. Then we switched the engine off, unfurled the headsail and Ambler took off in the light south westerly breeze. As we sailed clear of Russell we got a few gusts reaching up to 18 knots at times but the wind remained fairly steady at around 12 knots from the south west. When we were abeam of Tapeka Point we poled the headsail out and ran wing and wing before the breeze across the Bay of Islands towards Ninepin Island. The sun shone out of a cloudless blue sky and we passed a few runabouts drift fishing over a reef. We rounded Cape Wiwiki at 10.30 which marks the northern point of the Bay of Islands and turned north west to run along the coast towards some pinnacles aptly named the Needles. We adjusted the sails to beam reach, with the wind still coming from the south west. A fishing trawler motored past between us and the stunning rocky coastline. After reaching the Needles the wind lightened to SW 5-10 knots as we sailed across Takou Bay. The numerous small islands that are part of the Cavalli Islands group which lie about 2nm off the coast exposed themselves as we sailed closer. The larger islands were a combination of sandy beaches, rocky headlands and a mixture of cleared land and low scrub. The smaller islands were rocky pinnacles home to flocks of white sea birds. At 13.00 we were about 1nm short of Cavalli Passage when the wind died away. The captain decided it was time to fish so we put the sails away and drifted. We saw a seal sailing by with its flipper in the air, heard a few penguins calling and saw the occasional fluttering shearwater pass by but no fish. About half an hour later a new breeze arrived from the NW at 10 knots. We reset the full main and headsail and tacked to windward through the Cavalli Passage. It was a stunning passage with long sandy beaches and clear green water with the islands scattered to seaward of us. We abandoned our initial plan to anchor in Matauri Bay as the anchorage was exposed to the new wind direction. So we continued to tack to windward and sailed a further 5nm to Mahinepua Bay. At 16:00 we sailed into Mahinepua Bay until we reached a depth of 5m then dropped all the sails and proceeded to deploy the anchor. The water was so clear we could see shells on the sandy sea floor under Ambler and clearly see the anchor chain and its drag marks in the sand. It was a brilliant day of sailing.

This morning we woke to a calm and tranquil bay. It was another gorgeous day with warm sunshine and hardly a cloud to be seen. After breakfast a light breeze from the south west began to ruffle the surface of the bay. At 09.45 we raised the mainsail, weighed anchor, released the headsail and sailed out of Mahinepua Bay. We had a nice breeze for a short time before we were becalmed only a mile out of our previous anchorage. Before long a new breeze came in from the NNW and we worked to windward in 6-8 knots to clear Flat Island. We were careful to avoid the cray pot buoys bobbing on the surface not far off the island. Once we had rounded and cleared Flat Island we beam reached towards the entrance to Whangaroa Harbour in the NNW breeze. It was pleasant sailing and we averaged about 4 knots. The large land mass of Stephenson Island lay to the north of us and the alternating rocky cliffs and cleared farmland rolling down to sandy beaches was to our south. We saw a few other yachts and motor launches out on the water. At 12.30 we closed in on the narrow, fjord like entrance of Whangaroa Harbour. The high headlands running either side of the entrance were steep and rocky with many tempting sea caves and arches at their base. After entering Whangaroa Harbour through the narrow entrance we dropped anchor in the small bush clad Ranfurly Bay just to the north of the harbour's entrance passage.

Without wasting any time we launched our sea kayaks and paddled back out through the entrance to explore the rugged coastline either side of the harbour entrance. We were not disappointed when we found several long interconnecting tunnels. The air inside the tunnels was cool and the surge either held us back or shot us forward. Occasionally surges came through narrow off shoots creating a froth of white water. The rock formations were incredible. The cliff faces reminded me of cookies and cream ice cream with layers upon layers of conglomerate rock. Huge rounded boulders were held tight by the surrounded grit and rock. Others looked like they were going to drop out at any moment. After exploring both headlands we kayaked back into the harbour with the falling tide. Wayne collected his usual dozen oysters and as we made our way back to Ambler we disturbed a few schools of fairly large fish feeding on floating weed.

After a hot shower back on board Ambler we motored around to the more protected waters of Pekapeka Bay and dropped anchor in the northern arm called Waitepipi Bay. It is another beautiful bush clad bay with several large rock outcrops and sheer cliffs at its entrance. Whangaroa Harbour reminds us of Fiordland with its high forested hills and Port Pegasus on Stewart Island with its bare rocky outcrops.

All is content on board. Kathy and Wayne

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Russell, Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand

Date: 14/10/15 Position: Matauwhai Bay, Russell

On Saturday afternoon we left Oke Bay in the Bay of Islands. The friendly, local pod of dolphins farewelled us by escorting us out of the bay. We motored into a light head wind as we passed through Albert Channel and continued on towards Parekura Bay where we looked at the possibility of an available mooring for the summer. It seemed a quiet and fairly well protected bay so we'll keep it in mind. Our intention was to continue on to Russell for the night but as the wind was not in our favour we dropped the anchor in Pareanui Bay for the night. It was a peaceful, little bay with a modern house ashore with big signs on their manicured lawn saying Private Property. Later we were joined by another yacht and a motor launch.

On Sunday morning we left Pareanui Bay and motored a short distance out into the more open water of Te Rawhiti Inlet where we were able to catch a breeze in the sails and turn the engine off. We tacked our way back and forth in a light SW 5 - 12 knot breeze. The island chain to our north looked very inviting and we intend to return to these at some point to walk and kayak around them. As we rounded Tapeka Point we found we were on a collision course with the local Sunday yacht race. The yachts looked spectacular with their colourful spinnakers filled. Wayne skillfully had us tack between the yachts and a short time later we dropped anchor outside the heavily moored Matauwhai Bay which is the next bay around from Russell. After lunch we rowed ashore in the dinghy and left it tied up at the Russell Boating Club's pontoon along with about a dozen other dinghies. We had a pleasant walk into the small, quaint, historical town of Russell which was once the capital of New Zealand. We wandered around the streets before taking a bush track up to Flagstaff Hill. The houses are lovely, big, old weatherboards with neat and tidy gardens. After walking back to the Boat Club we were in luck to discover Sunday was roast night so we enjoyed a delicious roast beef and vegetables.

On Monday we went ashore into Russell again as the shops were closed the previous day. We were able to swap a few books at the secondhand bookshop/post office, have a rare ice cream and go for another walk which was part of a circle walk which links Opua, Pahia and Russell by ferries and walking.

On Tuesday morning we sailed out of Matauwhai Bay with just the headsail and 10 knots from the NW. We sailed up Veronica Channel to Opua where we anchored off the port between the channel and the mooring area with plenty of swinging room. There are hundreds of yachts around Opua either in the marina or on moorings. We felt privileged and in awe of spotting the tiny yacht 'Gannet' which looks to be about 20ft long. The 73 year old owner Web Chiles is sailing around the world in it. It has no cabin top or dodger of any kind but we did spy two stern chain plates that Ambler also has for towing a drogue in heavy weather. His website is www.inthepresentsea.com if you would like to follow him. It's an interesting read. After a trip ashore to Opua to check out the marine outlets we returned to Ambler.

In the afternoon we were in the middle of having a bite to eat and a cup of tea when we heard 'crash'. We both flew up on deck to find a Leopard 46 Catamaran colliding with our poker pole. We had followed this same catamaran, flying their quarantine flag up Veronica Channel earlier in the day. Unbelievably it was only blowing 15 knots at the most but it was dragging its anchor. I got the engine started and into reverse as Wayne fended the cat off then let out a further 25 metres of chain. We had only 5 metres of chain left out of our 70 metres. We appraised the situation then realised the catamaran was dragging down on us again. Wayne quickly went on board the cat to lower the fenders that had been pulled up but still left tied on from when they docked in to clear customs earlier. We moved our kayak from the port side and rigged our fenders and dock lines then we motored alongside the cat and made fast. Then our chain was able to be pulled in to a respectable 50 metres. It wasn't long before their anchor and snubbing lines became limp as Ambler held both boats fast. It was after dark when the couple from the catamaran returned and Wayne helped them retrieve and reset their anchor a safe distance down wind of Ambler.

Wednesday morning was cold with a brisk breeze blowing from the south and rain falling on the nearby hills. We left Opua early and went a short distance down the channel and anchored off the town of Paihia. We went ashore mid morning and tied up at the town wharf. Paihia was a nice little town, buzzing with holiday makers. After we bought some fresh supplies of meat and vegetables we returned to Ambler and sailed across to Matauwhai Bay near Russell where we have secured a 4 tonne mooring for the summer.

This afternoon we met some of the other local boaties who all seem very nice people. Tomorrow we plan to sail towards Whangaroa Harbour about 36nm further north up the coast.

All is good on board. Kathy and Wayne

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Photos from Whangarei Harbour to Bay of Islands

 The anchorage called The Nook in Whangarei Harbour

 Tutukaka Coast, the entrance to Tutukaka Harbour is between the islands 

Whananki something , the longest foot bridge in the southern hemisphere

Cormorants in Whangaruru Bay

Whangaruru Bay 

 Collecting loads of plastic rubbish washed ashore near the Wide Berth Islands

Sea Cave, Whangamumu Harbour 

Sea Cave, Whangamumu Harbour  

Our kayaks and Ambler in Whangamumu Harbour

A raft of Buller's Shearwaters  

Cape Brett on the left and Piercy Island on the right 

The archway in Piercy Island 

Cape Brett lighthouse 

A perfect day of sailing 

Collecting oysters at Oke Bay, Ambler in the background

Mmm....where did the water go? 

 

Leaving Oke Bay with a dolphin escort

These signs are everywhere along the coast of NZ 

The yacht 'Gannet' from the USA which Web Chiles is sailing around the world