Exploring Doubtful Sound

Date: 25/02/15 Time: 3.30pm Position: Snug Cove, First Arm, Doubtful Sound

We have been having an amazing time exploring Doubtful Sound over the last four days. The scenery is just spectacular and the changing weather patterns create a different atmosphere each day. Doubtful Sound is the second longest fjord at 40.4km and it is the deepest fjord at 434m. Here is what we've been up to since leaving Deep Cove.

On Sunday morning we topped up with diesel at the fuel wharf at Deep Cove. This wharf is canti-levered which means the wharf is bolted to the wall of the fjord. It was originally built as a shipping wharf to handle heavy equipment during the construction of the near by under ground hydro power station. After sailing out of Deep Cove we entered Hall Arm on the southern side of the fjord. The peaks and sheer walls rising out of the water in this arm were stunning. It was only 6nm from the wharf to the head of Hall Arm where we dropped anchor and took a stern line ashore. It was a beautiful sunny afternoon with clear blue skies overhead and the dramatic rocky skyline of the mountains above our anchorage just topped off a magnificent day. Since there was a breeze keeping the sandflies at bay we got a few deck jobs done as well as a trip up the mast to check everything over.

On Monday morning we left Hall Arm for the next arm, Crooked Arm. Once out in the main fjord the head wind was very strong with substantial waves and white caps. We motored close to the shoreline as the winds near the shore were calmer. After entering Crooked Arm we had the wind behind us and we were able to unfurl the headsail and sail down until the crook. After this point we lost the wind and had to motor to the head of the arm. We anchored in Haulashore Cove without the need for any shore lines. This was our first swing anchorage in Fiordland. There were several lovely U shaped valleys leading off from this arm.

On Tuesday morning we set off even earlier than normal hoping to avoid any strong winds by crossing the main fjord before 10am. After 10am the wind tends to pick up. Our destination was Blanket Bay, at the south eastern end of Secretary Island. We had a pleasant trip across and tied up alongside a historic wharf, with an old shack built on the wharf called 'The Blanket Bay Hotel'. This was a hub for fishermen and appeared to still be in use with an array of fishing buoys, ropes, etc inside and around the old building. There was a helipad adjoining the wharf that is used to transport crayfish out. We filled our water tanks here as there is a fresh water hose available. After leaving the wharf we picked up a mooring and tied up to a pre set stern line provided by fishermen. The cold front that we had been hearing about on the radio weather forecasts began to set in with heavy rain all afternoon. We spoke with three sea kayakers who paddled by. They were doing their own private trip and had been camping and staying at huts around the sound. After chatting with them for awhile we discovered that they had been to Antarctica on Spirit with our good friend Ben Tucker as first mate. They spoke very highly of Ben and the good times they had down there.

Today (Wednesday) a fresh south easterly breeze began to pick up and was blowing into our anchorage so we decided it was time to move. Before leaving we spoke to a guy from DOC who was in a run about and was with a crew who were checking stoat traps along the shore on Secretary Island. There are a few islands south of here that are part or whole pest free. The pests being possums, rats, mice and stoats. They are trying to increase the native bird population on these islands. An hour and a half after leaving Blanket Bay we dropped anchor at the head of First Arm in Snug Cove, our second swing anchorage. Not long after arriving we kayaked around First Arm in the beautiful warm sunshine. It was low tide and there were mussels everywhere, so we collected some for dinner. We are once again surrounded by breathtaking views of the mountains.

Tomorrow we hope to sail south to Daag Sound as the weather forecast is favourable. All is great on board. Wayne and Kathy

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