Portobello Bay, Otago Harbour

Date: 19/5/15 Position: Portobello Bay, Otago Harbour, East Coat of the South Island (Dunedin)

We left the lovely, small, friendly Otago Yacht Club on Friday in cold, wet, blustery conditions. As we motored out of the protective break waters of the yacht club into the main harbour channel we realised just how windy it was. There was enough swell in the wind waves for Ambler to rock about and the tops of the wavelets were breaking. With the wind behind us we motored downstream. Every so often the view behind us was obscured as a rain squall passed over. Our intention had been to anchor at Carey's Bay, Port Chalmers but on considering the wind speed and direction and that apparently the holding is only fair at Carey's Bay we decided against anchoring there.

After consulting the chart and water depths there seemed one option open to us. Although Otago Harbour is large and extensive most of the bays and coves are very shallow. Ambler draws two metres so we went with option one which was to anchor on the leeward side of Quarantine Island. We were protected from the south west but there didn't seem to be enough safe swinging room with a few piles and reefs about. A friendly boatie who had the caretaker of Quarantine Island on board radioed us and said that the caretaker was happy for us to tie up alongside the wharf if we wanted to. It was a kind gesture but we didn't want to be banging against a wharf all night.

Unhappy with the limitations of this anchorage we consulted the chart again and realised we could find a safe haven in Portobello Bay. W weighed anchor and motored around the headland of Portobello Peninsula. As the tide was high we sounded our way into Portobello Bay and dropped anchor in the lee of the peninsula. Once we were happy that the anchor was set and holding nicely we peeled off our wet weather gear, went down below, closed the companionway door behind us and started the heater. The rain and wind continued outside but we were comfortable and dry in Ambler's cosy cabin.

The following morning the rain had cleared for us to appreciate the prettiness of Portobello Bay. The peninsula itself is covered in farmland with sheep grazing on the hillsides. There is a single cottage on the shore which doesn't seem to be inhabited. At low tide cormorants perch themselves about the exposed rocks airing their wings. Gulls and herons parade up and down the shore looking for food and flocks of flying geese fly in to land, heralding their arrival and departure with a polite honking. A road runs from the end of the peninsula along the shore of the bay to a group of houses huddled together on the other side of the bay. Behind the road are rising green hills dotted with farmland and small plots of pine plantations. Across the harbour from us is the shipping port of Port Chalmers which is well lit up at night. We have been monitoring the comings and goings of the ships on an App called Marine Traffic.

For the three days since we dropped anchor in Portobello Bay it has been blowing from the south west between 35-50 knots. Apart from the wind in the rigging almost driving us to the point of using ear plugs, it hasn't been too bad. We've been occupying ourselves with our various on board hobbies and generally having a relaxing time. We thought we may have been able to head north today as the wind had eased to SW 15 knots, but before we would have gotten very far the northerly of 20 knots would have kicked in. So we made the most of the calmer conditions and rowed the dinghy ashore and walked around the foreshore and over the hill to the tiny locality of Portobello. We were disappointed to find the nice, little shop/supermarket displayed no prices! It had a good selection of foodstuffs but after about our fourth trip to the counter to find the price of a product we realised why they obviously didn't have prices on anything. It was all very expensive. So we left with just one loaf of bread and two bananas.

On our blog there is a link to the Marine Traffic website. The website displays the locations and details of vessels that transmit AIS data. You can find Ambler on this website. When we first entered Otago Harbour a couple of weeks ago someone (a ship spotter) took a photo of Ambler from the shore. They posted a nice photo onto Ambler's details. Check it out if you like.

All is relaxed on board whilst we wait for a weather window.

Kathy and Wayne

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